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melev

Tonight's update (ready for concrete at last)

Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.
It's hard to believe that two days ago, the fishroom was there, and today it is gone and ready for the big expansion. I'm sharing some of the pictures I took with my Nikon (rather than those taken with my iPhone 4) tonight, so you'll see a little repetition.

I began tearing out the walls while Bobby worked on the plumbing on 9/28.






The black foam is the sticky kind that seals against itself to keep the copper safe. This foam is being used instead of plastic sleeves (we couldn't find any at Home Depot or Lowes) to keep the concrete off the copper. All of the pipe was wrapped, except for the 3/4" line you see. It is the emergency overflow if the T&P valve of the water heater burst. Water would flow out on the back patio, which is city code.




The first wall came down.


Bobby trying to stay out of the camera's range didn't work.


Water heater in place, hooked up temporarily for the night.


On 9/29, I ran more copper lines for the fishroom's utility sink. I changed out the copper to flex lines on the water heater at the same time.


The form was nailed down and should hold the concrete once filled.


Hot & cold water for the sink. The drain will pour out into the french drain and down the driveway.


9/30: Two trips to Home Depot resulted in 50 bags (80lbs of 3000 PSI) concrete. The second trip, the bags seemed heavier. This picture is only half of the total in the garage right now.


Rebar was hammered into the holes I'd drilled previously, and I rented the drill again today to drill even more holes along the kitchen side and down into the garage floor on the two outer walls-to-be. Hammering in the rebar, I now understand better how it will hold the new slab to the old one. I used 5/8" along the step, and 3/8" for everything else.


A lot of measuring went on at Home Depot with the two french drain options they had, and finally I blew off their method and came up with my own. A 3" PVC pipe was cut in half to be the french drain, and five of their grates snapped on perfectly in succession.




The french drain was wrapped to keep it clean during the concrete pour. Once it is firm, I'll cut away the visible plastic. I'm toying with the idea of trying to pull out all the plastic and pressing it back into the moist concrete, but that will just get everything messy. I could pop it out once it is nearly dry, and glue the drain to the concrete slab, perhaps. Thoughts?


The rebar is all tied and ready. I'll elevate it 1" with small somethings when the concrete pour commences. The slab is 3" at one end, and 4.5" at the other. It should be nice and level. I added extra rebar near where the tank stand will be.


I bought a gallon of glue to apply to the concrete floor before pouring in the fresh mix, and I bought a can of tar to paint some exposed copper elbows, but my neighbor suggested I just seal in any copper with Great Stuff, then dump the concrete on top. I think that would probably be perfect as that foam will go everywhere better than trying to brush on a thick tar-goo.

The mixer is gasoline powered, so I'll run it during the day time. My son called to talk with the rental guys, and they said it holds 7 bags per batch. Sounds good to me. By tomorrow night, it should be poured and smooth.

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Tags: rebar
Categories
Tank Entry , ‎ DIY projects

Comments

  1. Snakebyt's Avatar
    wow man, grats to you for doing this whole process DIY, and even more for taking pics to share with everyone. Looks like you are learning alot along the way. Love the french drain you have going
  2. msr224's Avatar
    Good looking set up. I wouldnt leave that plastic on the french drain. You'll never get ut all cut and it could potentially prevent the concrete from adhering to the drain and holding it in. Think about removing it and taping off the top of the drain to keep it new looking. Use a quality masking tape. Don't use duct tape...too hard to clean off...don't ask...been there once at work with over a hundred round drains.....PITA!!!!!
    I wouldn't suggest painters tape either, you'll want a little more adhesion.
    Good luck
  3. Hat39406's Avatar
    Yeah marc I would take the drain out and keep it where it will just come out for cleaning purposes.
  4. Bobbywade's Avatar
    I see you used my idea about the French drain! Lol
  5. Alaska_Phil's Avatar
    Love the french drain idea. Our land lord is constantly getting on me every time I spill a bit of water.
    How are you going to hold it down to keep it from floating out of the concrete while it sets?
  6. Blennymower's Avatar
    Marc I've been out of action for a while and recently found out about what happened to your tank. You've probably said this already but what are you planning on doing? I see you're doing a lot of construction. Bigger tank? Bigger fish room?
  7. reefocd's Avatar
    Hey, M.,

    Oh, this is getting GOOD ... The half round drain staying anchored during a cement pour has my pulse racing Too bad you couldn't put some kind of legs on the half round or strap the drain pipe to the ground before pour? Or, block out a thee inch channel with 2x3's smooched together with few screws (1.5 x 2 = 3) and standing on end as temp forms. Elevate to allow cement to flow under forming the eventual bottom of drain support. Tack the wood on ends to your existing forms to stay put. Remove later and set your thee inch half round as step 2 once you can walk on slab? Use small batch of cement to fill under half round?

    Either way, much success and it's really gonna be AWESOME......
    Updated 10-01-2010 at 04:14 PM by reefocd
  8. melev's Avatar
    You guys are exactly right, the drain floated up. I didn't anticipate that at all. I used some concrete block to hold it down as the concrete hardens, and in a few hours I'll get busy with the surface work to smooth things out. It's really rough at the moment with the french drain having been added after the form was filled. I'm sure it will be fine, but I'm going to have to try hard not to be such a perfectionist about it and just get it done.
  9. reefocd's Avatar
    If it gets too messy, you could float the floor complete and come back later and wet saw cut the drain track with some chisel work shouldn't be too difficult. HD has those yellow tile skil saws with diamond blade and hook-up to a hose attachment. Goodluck with whatever you have to do to getter done
  10. Sisterlimonpot's Avatar
    Hey marc,
    Are you going to relocate that attic ladder? or are you going to access it from the fish room?
  11. melev's Avatar
    Yes, the attic stairs have to move, but I've not decided where yet.

    I pulled off the forms today and the concrete looks good.