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maroun.c

Help with light rack design for Lumenbrights and T5s

Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.
Hi,
I'm finalizing the design of the light rack for my tank and would appreciate help on the following questions.
Tank is 88x34x30
Lights planned:
3 LB mini (16x16x7) 250 w with Coralvue dimmable ballasts and a couple of T5 lines on the front and back:

Points I need help with:
-Hanging height (I remember it was 16-18 inch from water to bulb) should I raise them more as I'm only using 3
-T5s in between the bulbs from front to back? would those give better coverage (would they give a bad effect of linear lights)
Most important is the plan of the rack would appreciate a link to light racks if you have one? Do you think it's worth to add a pulley system as my canopy extends to the ceiling and I can raise the lights a lot more.
Thanks

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Updated 08-26-2011 at 02:46 PM by melev

Categories
Lighting

Comments

  1. dahenley's Avatar
  2. Hat39406's Avatar
    Here is Marc's light rack build here on Reef Addicts: http://www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php...t-rack-project
  3. melev's Avatar
    The Ez-tube method is great for the rack itself, and they will cut the pipe to the lengths you need. You will have to trim the flanges where they would otherwise overlap.

    A pulley system is fine. You will want to pull up both (or all four) points at the same time like a venitian blind, rather than one side like a bike rack. Pulling it up as a flat unit and lowering it again into position should be like an elevator, nice and flat. I used a rolling track from McMaster and the hanging rods are threaded rod from Home Depot.

    I don't think you'll get a linear look from T5s because of the type of light they are. With LEDs, you'd have the line of light for sure.

    Thanks for posting that link, Henry. That way I didn't have to look for it myself.
  4. maroun.c's Avatar
    Thanks for all the replies and links.
    One last question, when you place the reflector on the lip do you still support it somehow so that it doesn't fall if you accidentally bump the rack?
  5. melev's Avatar
    The opening is the exact width of the reflector, and the flange is 3/4" thick. That gives you 1.5" of support for both ends, both front to back and side to side. it has nowhere to move.

    When I hung the light rack, I put a nut on the top and bottom where the threaded rod passes through the rack. That way if I somehow hit the rack upwards (like standing up too fast and hitting it with my head, for example), the rack wouldn't bounce upward and slam back down on the nut. It is locked in place as a unit.