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melev

Hiding the waterline

Rating: 3 votes, 5.00 average.
The newer version of the Marineland 400g came with a lowered water line than previously. The black plastic trim didn't hide it this time, and my preference is to keep that invisible. A few months ago, in anticipation of this situation, I ordered some flat black vinyl strips to apply to the tank once it was setup and running.

I didn't want to ruin the vinyl during the process of adding sand, rock and livestock, but now that everything is in the tank, it was high time to get it done. I ordered enough vinyl for the two long sides and the end panel, to adhere at the top as well as to the bottom to hide the wavy silicone line visible at the base of the sandbed.

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This product is very similar to pin-striping that is glued to a vehicle. It handles the weather all year long, and takes the brunt of car wash machinery perfectly. With this affixed to my tank, I can still use the cleaning magnet as usual without damaging the product.

Here are a couple of pictures of the gap created by the lowered water line. With woodwork in place, this gap would be a source of light-leak into the room - basically a distraction. It also looks a little messy even if you keep the glass clean along the perimeter.

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I cut away one strip of vinyl from the full sheet, and peeled off the masking tape with the black strip. The tank was cleaned first with windex, then I sprayed the area of glass with soapy water, and then sprayed the sticky side of the vinyl with soapy water as well. (This is quite similar in principle to the Zagg screen protectors we stick to our smart phones.)

Once both halves were wet with soapy water, I pressed the black vinyl where I wanted it, right under the black trim.

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Using a rubber squeegee-like tool, I smoothed the vinyl to the glass. This forces out the excess liquid and presses out trapped air bubbles.

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I removed the masking tape cover, sprayed the black vinyl again with soapy water and squeegeed it once more to make sure it was positioned exactly where I wanted it. Here's the final look after I was done with the two viewing panes. I didn't do the bottom half yet, nor the back panel on the fishroom side.

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It already looks more complete to me now; so much nicer.

Unrelated: This is the view from the top of the tank looking toward the return plumbing.

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The strips were ordered oversized. 3/4" tall and a little longer than necessary so that I could cut off the excess for a nice clean look. Within a few days these will be fully cured and on the tank for life, but if I ever had to remove it, I could do so easily.

You can order the vinyl from a shop like Fast Signs, or buy the aquarium background offered by Blue Life USA and cut strips yourself. I opted to get these professionally done so the bottom edge was 100% straight and perfect. Flat black is best, instead of glossy black. The idea is to hide the water line, not make it obvious what you did.

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Updated 12-08-2013 at 03:25 AM by melev

Tags: black vinyl
Categories
DIY projects

Comments

  1. UkSweeney's Avatar
    Why is the water line lower? And with it lower does this mean the tank is a 399 gallon tank?
  2. melev's Avatar
    Based on the depth of the teeth, the water line is lower than the plastic trim. Most tanks don't have a 1" thick eurobracing. Don't forget the water sitting in the external overflow - that gets the tank to 400g.
  3. UkSweeney's Avatar
    So if your adding water that's not in the main tank, but attached to it. What is the total for the system? Incl sump and I bet theirs a gallon in all your pipes.
  4. jlemoine2's Avatar
    Nicely executed, Marc. I was skeptical of how it would look when I first started reading your post, but the final pics show the project turned out great.

    From your last pic, it appears your overflow teeth are quite long. Did you consider using a strip of acrylic to block a portion of the teeth in order to raise the water level? Perhaps there is less room on the teeth then would appear in the pic?
  5. melev's Avatar
    If I were to raise the water level higher, the Eurobracing would pretty much be submerged in water. Over time it would get dirty with algae, water spots and calcification. I don't mind the small gap between the eurobracing and the surface of the water. In the last 400g, I had a small strip of acrylic in the external overflow to raise the water up just enough to hide the light leak, but this was a rather larger area to fill.

    The tank is 84" x 36" x 30" using 3/4" glass on all four sides. With external measurements, that adds up to 392g. The external overflow box is 36" x 6" x 8" and adds up to 7.5g Using internal measurements, it's more like 332g of water. Once you displace some of that with sand and rock, it's more like 300g of real water. This sounds about right, considering how that's about how much I added to the tank during setup.

    The sump is 58" x 31.5" x 17" and that measures out to 135g filled to the top. I run it at about 80g, with plenty of empty space.
  6. Alaska_Phil's Avatar
    Now that you have pinstriping on your tank, what's next? Flames?
  7. guppy breeder's Avatar
    out of the few times I've been over I have never noticed that.
  8. melev's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by guppy breeder
    out of the few times I've been over I have never noticed that.
    Which means it works.