View RSS Feed

75 gallon tank

In the beginning a man wanted a bigger tank (who doesn't, right)

Rate this Entry
In September 2008 I finally talked my wife into letting me set up a saltwater tank. We visited several fish stores and asked lots of questions and settled on a 29 gallon complete set up being sold on commission by a fish store near an army base for a soldier going over to the big sand box. It had almost everything we needed and even though we were told keeping the 29 gallon parameters in check would be hard, we decided to buy it. So we had a tank, stand, compact fluorescent lighting, two maxijet powerheads, refractometer, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kits and a hang on the back skimmer. We also purchased some sand, live rock, salt and di water. So was born the little 29 gallon tank. It has changed quite a bit over the last 3 1/2 years. Currently it has some xenia, a few ricordeas, an African Flameback Dwarf Angel, an Ocellaris Clownfish, a Wheeler's Watchman Goby and a Psuedochromis fridmani (Orchid Dottyback I believe?). All of the inhabitants have been in the tank for more than a year with the Psuedochromis being the last added around November of 2010.

Not much more than a year after it was set up I began to suffer from tank envy. But alas being a civil engineer working in the housing industry, with the housing crash a larger tank was not in the picture. However, over the last 6 months, the housing industry in my area has been on a steady rise, and being in a situation where the only real debt I have is a car payment, I decided it was finally time to make the upgrade I've wanted for several years.

I searched around on craigslist and found a few 75's and a 90 and scheduled times to go take a look. I looked at the 75 gallon range because we rent and I can't make structural modifications to the house for a larger tank. There is a main beam near where the 75 will reside and it will straddle a minimum of 3 floor joist, so there shouldn't be any structural problems with a tank this size.

After viewing several of the tanks, I picked this one up for $40. It held water when I bought it but the silicone looks whitish. So I plan to reseal all the seams, just to be on the safe side.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0416.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	76.3 KB
ID:	6783

I also picked up a 40 gallon breeder to use as the sump. Here it is when I was doing the water test.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0421.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	116.3 KB
ID:	6784
I also have a 10 gallon that will either be used as an auto top off or as a saltwater mixing tank.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0423.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	84.3 KB
ID:	6785

I've also purchased my skimmer.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0426.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	80.5 KB
ID:	6786

I plan to build a stand that is over sized for the 75 gallon to give room to set things down around the tank when needed and also give plenty of room underneath for the sump and other goodies.

I'm thinking about buying the kind of overflow kit that requires drilling a hole(don't want to mention specific names if we are supposed to), so I did some research and tested the sides and bottom of the 75 to see if they were tempered.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0411.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	26.9 KB
ID:	6787

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0412.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	21.8 KB
ID:	6788

On the sides when my polarized sunglasses are twisted the white screen on my computer (as seen through the glass of the aquarium) turns an even black all over. The bottom has lots of striations or ripples of white and black (sorry couldn't get my camera to focus on the striations). I believe this means the sides are not tempered but the bottom is. I would appreciate input if my understanding is incorrect before I order the overflow kit.

The other thing I'm contemplating is using a closed loop to keep the water movement in the tank high while being able to keep the turnover through the sump at around 5x. I've thought about drilling additonal holes in the back for the inflow to a reeflo snapper/dart hybrid, but I'm concerned about weakening the tank if I drill too many holes. So the other option is to use a method similar to the one melev used on his 29 but using the snapper instead of a mag drive pump. To get flow equivalent to that of the snapper, I'd have to use a Mag 24. The Mag 24 uses about 245 watts to move a max 2400 gph and the snapper uses 108 watts to move 2500 gph. However, I don't know if the snapper will be damaged if used in this manner. Any thoughts?

Well there's my introduction and a few questions. Hope you follow along over the next several months as I get the 75 up and running and switch the 29 over.

Submit "In the beginning a man wanted a bigger tank (who doesn't, right)" to Digg Submit "In the beginning a man wanted a bigger tank (who doesn't, right)" to del.icio.us Submit "In the beginning a man wanted a bigger tank (who doesn't, right)" to StumbleUpon Submit "In the beginning a man wanted a bigger tank (who doesn't, right)" to Google

Updated 01-13-2012 at 12:14 AM by blakew (Fixing Pictures)

Categories
Tank Entry , ‎ Questions - Need some input , ‎ Equipment

Comments

  1. blakew's Avatar
    Fixed the pictures.
    Updated 01-13-2012 at 02:10 AM by blakew
  2. melev's Avatar
    Congrats on the upgrade. I enjoyed my 29g reef for 7 years, so I know where you are coming from.

    Regarding tempered glass, I've heard about this test but never done it myself so I really can't advise what you are looking for. Many tanks do have a tempered bottom panel, which usually has a sticker to indicate this (often viewed looking down from inside the tank). The walls are normally not tempered and can be drilled for an overflow.

    Understandably, it does make one nervous to turn a glass panel into swiss cheese for a closed loop application. How many holes total do you have in mind? What about a single hole for the suction side, and then returns over the back wall into the tank? Or would you prefer one-out and one-in instead?
  3. blakew's Avatar
    The snapper hybrid has a 2" intake and the documentation says not to restrict the inlet. The overflow kit I plan on using comes with a hole saw the correct size for a 1 1/2" bulkhead. The area of a 2" pipe is approximately 3.14 sq in. (2) 1 1/2" pipes have an area of approximately 3.5 sq in. So I was thinking I could use the hole saw that comes with the overflow kit to drill two more holes for 1 1/2" intakes. Those would combine into a 2" pipe to feed the pump. The snapper would feed a 1" scwd which in turn would feed two "spray bars". One on each end of the tank.
  4. Hat39406's Avatar
    Hey Blake, welcome to the site! I've had a 29 gallon also and upgraded to a 75 gallon. I will follow ya progress. How's about a pic of ya 29 gallon?
  5. melev's Avatar
    Having two 1.5" drains leading down to the 2" intake can work. Bigger strainers will help prevent too much suction that could hurt any nearby livestock, but they are hard to hide.

    If you want to use the SCWD, I'd just have two clean returns rather than spray bars. They usually don't look nice, and clog up easily.
  6. blakew's Avatar
    Thanks for the welcome Mark and hat.

    Hat, I'll try to get a picture of the 29 up later this evening.

    Mark, I thought about putting a tee in the 1 1/2" bulkheads with strainers on both sides of each tee. I don't know if that would help to keep from sucking in a fish or not. Good to know about the spray bars, I'll not plan on using them.

    Do you think the (3) 1 1/2" holes across the back would significantly weaken the pane? Would I be better off using an intake pipe like you had in your set up, or do you think there's too much risk of damage to the snapper in that configuration?

    Thanks for your thoughts.
  7. Floggin's Avatar
    Great blog post, look forward to seeing what you do next. Also I just recently purchased the same 75 gallon tank! I noticed this by the glass brace in the center. I can for sure tell you that the glass isn't tempered...I tested it the same way you did and drilling went just fine. Good luck!