pepper'scove

Great! Just great. I finished reading your post on silicone and guess what i built a sump with? Back to Home Depot...

I've never done it so I have no opinion of what you should do. When discussing the repair of the 280g, I'd considered breaking the entire tank down to all the glass parts, clean everything like new, and resilicone from the bottom up. I was even thinking of replacing the front pane since it had scratches. Then when I placed my order with Marineland, that plan was put behind me. Good luck with whatever you choose.

Well, I am leaning towards option #2 since that is what Central Aquatics (Aqueon/All-Glass) told me to do when I was talking to them. But the more I think about it the more I think maybe I need to tear the whole tank apart (if that's what Marc was leaning towards when his tank broke it stands to reason that it's probably a good option :P). I am going away for the weekend so that gives me the better part of 3 days to find out. Hopefully somebody on here has done this before and can give further advice before I get back. Thanks again guys!!

Not to turn this into a mudslinging war, but I actually tried to join Reef Central yesterday. When I went to make what would've been my first and only post (on this same topic) I got a message that said I had been banned and that the restriction would never be lifted. I decided to try again when I got to work and I was finally able to post - after creating a new account. However, I waited all day and received no reply. I placed this up here after I got home from work, and when I woke up I had at least received more than NOTHING and thankfully I hadn't been banned before I even got to spread my crazy ideas . Just another reminder of why I like this site better than all the other forums I've joined! Thanks to everyone who makes this site possible!

#2 is what all of the local guys around here do also. Go for it! Take lots of pics and post the how to!

I was in the same position after looking over the seams good there where no gaps or bubbles. I took a razor blade and cut out the inside silicone I cut in flat with the side to the front and back glass so to have a point to cut to when cutting toward the silicone smashed between the glass. Youll probally have a smear of silicone left on the glass after cutting just re scrape what you can off and use denatured alcohol to clean the joints be for re gluing it will remove the rest of the silicone smear with a little rubbing and leaves no flim on the glass you can get it at any hardware store. Cut your tip on the tube about 1/4in opening. Trick is to lay a stead bead from bottom to top put about a nickel sized blob at the bottom and top makeing sure to lay the bead so it hits bought panes of glass. I used a small baby spoon to strike the joints after or they sell a small plastic tool to do the same. Ive tried to remove the top and bottom frames many time but they are usually brittle by the trime you need to re silicone the tank. And if any is mounted up on the edges after striking it leave it till it dries tring to fix it while wet just makes a ugly joint remove with a razor after it dries. Hope this helps good luck with your endeavor and remember no geII this time

Well, we'll see if any dissent comes in but Central Aquatics, and you two guys said the same thing. Marc seemed like he was leaning towards a rebuild, but also said he had no official recommendation. I will probably go for option #2. To get a good straight line I will be using masking tape to help seal off the seams. The idea of using the spoon is a really good one. I have a tool for this purpose, but a spoon might give a better outcome, it wouldn't be compliant like my silicone tool so maybe I will experiment. And DJ, no worries, all my GE II is history. It's all Momentive 100 Series silicones for me from now on (unless they change the formula)! Also, thanks for the suggestion on using a 1/4" silicone bead.

Oh, any suggestions on color would be great. I got some clear stuff (the 108), but I was thinking about doing the corners in black (103) silicone to give the tank an Oceanic style. What do you guys think? Which would make the coral stand out better or make the tank look nicer in your opinions?

I don't think black would be good since your bonds are made with clear.

When you apply the masking tape on each side of the silicone bead, get it close to the joint. 1/4" away, at the most. Then after the silicone is applied and smoothed, remove the tape within 10 minutes. That's the perfect time to get a good clean look.

I'm positive my method was overkill, but with a seam failing, I expected others to be in like condition.

i never a tank with black silicone but a friend just gave me a 72 bowfront with black and i really like the looks of it closest i ever had was old stainless tar and slate tanks. But id go with whats there

Wel, I went with option #2. The silicone has been curing for 2 days now so it's about time to lift the tank back to its stand. I will probably paint the tank first and then worry about getting it up where it belongs.

The next project is building a new overflow. The tank had one originally, but it was clear. When I re-siliconed the tank I took it out. It also only had one 1-1/4" Durso standpipe on it. Since I want to achieve 10 times tank turnover rate I'm thinking I should probably drill one more hole to get the overflow rating higher. I also want to make it 3-1/2" thick instead of 6 inches. That way the overflow will be longer and have more linear overflow length. I believe I determined 17-1/2" was about right for length so all told I would have 20 linear inches of overflow length!

Anyway, before I get carried away with questions on that I need to make the DIY on re-siliconing the inside of my tank. Thanks for all your help guys!!!

-Jeremy

Oh, I'm making a black acrylic overflow instead of clear. I think that will look WAY BETTER since it will hide the plumbing.