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I am building my stand so that it has three sections (the 120 and two 20 gallon stands). This is my first wood working project. I have to say it is fun. The 120 gallon stand was easy to get squared but the two 20 gallon stands didn’t want to cooperate. I used RocketEngineer DIY Stand Template and Calculator on reefcentral to build the stand base.

Design using sketch up



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I started a build thread on reefcentral but decided to start posting what I have done on reefaddicts as well. Pictured bellow is the design. I used google’s free program sketchup to mock up what is going on in my head. The plan is two have a 120 display with a 20 gallon fuge on each side. The fuges will more be a planted aquarium and I plan on adding red mangroves as well.



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Most of our glass arrived this past weekend! So the two sides, the bottom, and display are all in my basement. We're just waiting for the overflow, the back (with all its holes), and the eurobrace. It looks very glass-like. The edges are all polished and pretty.

I'm afraid to touch it though because I keep thinking of those days that I wear my glasses, and suddenly my lenses are covered in fingerprints. I do admit though to running my hands over the polished edges just to see if they ...

I know Marc did a very extensive write-up on using a PAR meter to analyze light bulbs; however, can a PAR meter be effectively used to determine WHEN to change metal halide bulbs?

I know that we must pay attention to not only intensity of the light in the tank, but also to the color (or color shift) as the bulb ages.

My thought is to buy a PAR meter to see if I really need to change the bulbs at 6-12 months like the manufacturers suggest. I run 3 400W MHs on a sunrise/sunset ...

I am pretty sure this a macro algae. Is it good for a tank, or can it get out of control?