Blog Comments

  1. Heathd's Avatar
    I have a few random sprigs of that around my tank. It seems to grow and then just randomly die off.
  2. melev's Avatar
    If you keep a written record of the PAR meter measurements each time you test, then you can see the drop off in numbers over time and make an informed decision about when to change the bulbs. The best option is a simple spreadsheet of stored data, updated every couple of months.
  3. melev's Avatar
    Safe, calcerous and rather pretty macro algae: http://www.melevsreef.com/id/annulata.html
  4. yiyi67's Avatar
    I have heard about people using the southdown sand from Home Depot as well with no issues, but the key is to use only this stuff because it is a true calcium carbonate media, most other sands are silicate based, which is a definite no no in reef tanks. I believe another name for the southdown stuff is Oldcastle sand. A buddy and I went around to a few Home Depots/ Lowes and everyone looked at us like we were crazy for wanting "special" sand because they had no idea there was a difference in sand. I think your best bet to find this stuff is going to a building supply place and talking to someone truly knowledgeable of their products.

    Once I couldn't semi-easily locate a source for this stuff I decided to go through Marco Rocks. There stuff is what is known as sugar fine sand. It is very nice stuff.
  5. austin93's Avatar
    What about putting something behind the teeth in the overflow to raise the operating level of the tank?
  6. Midnight's Avatar
    ya, you overflow is what determines your water level in the tank. if you can't raise your overflow then you will have to lower the trim.
  7. fchidsey's Avatar
    You can't raise the stand pipe or raise the overflow box?

    some pics would be good to come up with some other solutions as previously stated
  8. melev's Avatar
    First of all, never restrict a drain line. If you ever have a fish or snail go down the drain, it could act like a cork and stop up the drain. Now the display will overflow because water can't exit any longer via the drain plumbing.

    Putting in more sand won't make a difference in the water line height once the water has equalized. It'll be more full initially, but it will then drain down and you'll be back to the same situation.

    Your trimwork is too high, more than likely. You could apply black felt or black acrylic across the top section to hide the error, or fix the trim.

    Post a picture or two of the situation.
  9. Turbosek's Avatar
    Their website is horrible, but do not le that fool you. They have been in business for 15 years as a saltwater only fish store, and they are VERY helpfull and knowledgable...except for the bare bottom tank thing:-)
  10. Turbosek's Avatar
    http://www.saltwatercity.com/

    They are actually in Bellevue. I would check them out. What area do you live in?
  11. HAWAII's Avatar
    Where is this at? do you have the address or web page? i live near seattle ...
  12. melev's Avatar
    I find it interesting that after you were told by the LFS not to go with sand, you concluded with your 6" DSB. Not what I expected you to type. hehe

    4" to 6" is what is recommended for a DSB. The general rule is to leave it alone and not disturb it. A bunch of critters to keep the top 1/2" moving is best, which keeps it aerated. Hermits, starfish, cucumbers, conchs, and nassarius snails. Those are your sand crew.

    During the cycle, don't do any water changes. That just slows down the process instead of letting it peak and fall as it should. You don't need any lights on during the cycling period - leave them off.
  13. Hat39406's Avatar
    Hey Turbo, man I wish they had a store like that here! Sounds like you had a great time, and a very informative time at that. The algae will come but I believe it stay for different durations. My last tank, it stayed for what seemed like months. This tank, it was like two weeks; although I started with LFS ro and saltwater this time. It just all depends. I heard if you get an emerald crab they eat the algae. I had a white crab and It use to eat the algae fast.
  14. Turbosek's Avatar
    Sorry about all the typos....I am not stupid, just lazy:-).....Except when it comes to reefing!
  15. melev's Avatar
    You can lower the elbow in the water. Be sure to drill one or two anti-siphon holes in the vertical pipe, 1/2" beneath the normal water level. That way you don't have to have your sump fill up so much. I always limit it, but if it has to hold more, it can just like you stated yours can.
  16. Turbosek's Avatar
    One more thing. When I use an elbow or a 45 for return, it creates a vortex like whirlpool. Maybe I should have it an inch or so lower in the water. I have plenty of room in my sump for the overflow, even if the siphon hole plugs.
  17. melev's Avatar
    Here's what mine looked like in my 55g.

  18. Turbosek's Avatar
    Thanks. My overflow is in the center back.
  19. melev's Avatar
    My tank is similar. I have two 1" returns, and these are reduced to 3/4" for two 3/4" locline returns. If you only have a single return, you might consider just having it dump into the tank via an elbow to get it submerged like I did with my 55g. Rather than worry about directionality, just get the water back into the tank where nothing is disturbed and let the Vortechs care for the flow.
  20. Jkohuts's Avatar
    do you only have one overflow on one side of the tank?
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