Blog Comments

  1. a whiff of grapeshot's Avatar
    LEDs are the way to go! After convincing the wife, I upgraded my tank to two EcoTech Radions. They are well worth it. I would recomend anyone to get some as soon as they can.
  2. nekkidrobert's Avatar
    ok i will Thanks Melev
  3. melev's Avatar
    The image isn't coming up for me. You can email it to me if you prefer.
  4. melev's Avatar
    Okay, post those up when you have time.
  5. nekkidrobert's Avatar
    Yes i did and thanks Melev. ok i was just making sure on the light i run it for about 2 hours right now during the day so i can feed the fish and only thing im going to add is some hermit carbs to eat the food they dont eat since it just sits on the bottom. And for the snails ill try some in my wife's sump since she has nothing it in but live rock and alot of hair algae. Im going to try and post a pic of a red plant thats been growing off her life rock since i cant seem to fins it anywhere to see what it is.
  6. melev's Avatar
    During the cycle, you don't need to run the lights at all. You don't have anything to keep the algae under control, so you'd be fueling that growth with light for no good reason... in fact it would be detrimental.

    The skimmer stand will be there shortly. Already shipped your way yesterday; you should have gotten an email from Fedex with the tracking information.
  7. cyano's Avatar
    do you have any algae yet? I only ask because if there is more CuC than food than they will starve to death and could cause an ammonia spike which in turn could cause you to get algae blooms causing kind of an endless cycle of life and death. Not trying to scare you just keep an eye on your CuC. I have several nessarius snails in my tank and I have not have had an issue with them, they will clean up a fish death very quickly and come out of the sand like zombies during feeding time.

    Every tank is different for lighting times. I am on a 10 hour light cycle myself but typically 8-12 hours. Too long and you get algae, too short isn't much of an issue unless you have corals.
  8. nekkidrobert's Avatar
    yup thats me and i only need it 2 inches tall any taller and i cant get the skimmer cup off lol
  9. melev's Avatar
    Oh, that was you? LOL I saw payment come in. I'm on it.
  10. nekkidrobert's Avatar
    send u the money for the stand so i have everything once i get the stand
  11. melev's Avatar
    Sounds like a great start to me.
  12. nekkidrobert's Avatar
    just went up order a skimmer stand from u Melev lol
  13. nekkidrobert's Avatar
    i have 2 clowns ordered but they wont be in for a couple weeks since my LFS only orders every 3 weeks and only deal in fresh water but i get the salt water items at their prices and i love it
  14. melev's Avatar
    The rule is 3 watts per gallon for a heater. A 75g needs 225w of heat, unless you keep your home unusually cold. I would not recommend two 300w heaters because of the potential to overheat the tank if something goes wrong.

    So far, you're at $27 per gallon. Not bad at all.
  15. melev's Avatar
    I can make you a custom acrylic stand for your skimmer if you can't find anything.

    Looks good so far! What will you be adding as livestock initially?
  16. steve8855's Avatar
    dot think live rock can be dry

    if its dry then its just rock
  17. nekkidrobert's Avatar
    i was wondering about the heater. and i dont notice i forgot the overflow box but i do have one

    thanks
  18. Jato460's Avatar
    when I had my 75 gallon tank I needed 2 300 watt heaters and I hooked them up to my reefkeeper's thermostat, you might only need one if you plan to cover your tank, Also does your tank have an overflow box built in? if not you forgot to count the cost of an external overflow
  19. Midnight's Avatar
    found this:


    Chloramine, which consists of a mixture of chlorine and ammonia, is added to the water of many cities as a substitute for free chlorine. It is often referred to in the plural, as “chloramines,” because it can take on a number of forms according to the pH and mineral content of the water.
    The whole reduction discussion for chloramines can become quite complex, but the main thing you need to know is that chloramine is removed from water with essentially the same strategies that are used to remove chlorine. This means that carbon filtration is the best removal method, and, contrary to urban legends, filter carbon does indeed remove chloramine. The problem is that it takes more carbon and more contact time to do the job. In practical terms this means that if your city disinfects your tap water with chloramines you'll need to get a larger and better carbon filter than you would need if chlorine alone were used.
    For drinking water you can consider high quality carbon units like Multi-Pure, or double and triple units that use lots of carbon. And, contrary to another widely promoted myth, reverse osmosis units do remove chloramine. In fact, they do it well, because any good RO unit contains a couple of carbon filters and the water gets an extra slow pass through the first one.
    In choosing carbon for chloramine removal, a specially prepared carbon called “catalytic” carbon is far superior to regular carbon.
    Catalytic carbon is a specifically processed grade of filter carbon that is designed especially for, among other things, exceptional chloramine removal. On our site, the brand name for catalytic carbon is Centaur.
    You should also consider specially prepared carbon filters from Pentek, which are expertly designed to reduce chloramines.
  20. Midnight's Avatar
    Chlorimines should be removed by the carbon blocks if there not full/dead I believe. I would check into replacing or adding that to your system. Could you post a pic of your rodi system?
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