Blog Comments

  1. Blake's Avatar
    there you go happy now marc????? hahahaha
  2. melev's Avatar
    Quote Originally Posted by Blake
    haha i would if i knew how! haha
    You already have a profile picture, as is evidenced at the top of your blog (right panel). You need to add a picture for your avatar next. Click on Settings (very top right of this screen) and then Edit Avatar (left column half way down page) to insert an image.
  3. Blake's Avatar
    @dread240 is raising your magnesium helping at all??
  4. Blake's Avatar
    haha i would if i knew how! haha
  5. melev's Avatar
    Blake: I use tank water usually. Sometimes I'll have newly mixed & aged saltwater handy and will use that instead. As long as temp, pH and salinity match, it should go well.

    Update your avatar and profile pictures, already.
  6. Blake's Avatar
    hey melev do u use ur tank water for QT or do you mix new water?
  7. melev's Avatar
    Usually, Mg should be around 1300ppm. Three times the calcium level. Over the years, I've kept it around 1400ppm as montipora did better at that level, color-wise.
  8. dread240's Avatar
    I'm in the fight currently myself. I've been raising about 75-100ppm each day and have seen absolutely no effects on my corals at all. In fact I think the higher mag is helping some of them as they seem to have even higher polyp extension... I normally had it at like 1150 mag and I'm up to 1650 now
  9. melev's Avatar
    50 to 100 ppm per day should be fine. 50 if you want to be safe. TECH-M only. Nothing else has the same results.
  10. Blake's Avatar
    Ok so the magnesium wont kill my acros??? Ol good and marc how slowly should I raise my magnesium as far as incraments over time with the tech M for roughly 130 gallons of water????
  11. melev's Avatar
    It's been a while since I read up on killing Bryopsis with Magnesium, but as far as I recall people didn't lose corals to the higher Mg. It was the snails that took the hit. Using Kent Tech-M (not any old magnesium supplement), hobbyists raised it up to 1600 or even 1800ppm to kill it off.

    I battled bryopsis myself: Using a powerhead or turkey baster, blast the plants well. Detritus traps within the roots to create a mini deep sand bed to feed itself. Stripping it of these nutrients will help. Ripping it off, pinch by pinch (or via forceps) will reduce mass. Lettuce nudibranchs will eat it. It is a slow battle.

    Foxface fish will eat it.

    If you do dose to raise Mg up, and it all doesn't die leaving you with one or two stubborn areas, one guy turned off all the flow and used a syringe full of Tech-M to baste the specific patch of algae. 10 minutes later he turned the flow back on and made sure that solution mixed into the rest of the system and not to land on any one coral. The bryopsis turned white and died over the next week.

    It will take a long time for the Mg to drop, but once it finally does you can add more snails again.
  12. losbeek's Avatar
    im with matt on this one. always safer to go smaller doses more often (if possible).
  13. matt_longview's Avatar
    I'd be willing to raise mine about 40-50 per day. I'd try to cut that up into as many pieces as you could. So you'd rather raise it 10ppm 5 times a day rather than 50ppm all at once. Plus if you raise it 30 and you notice anything looking funky you can always skip the last two of the day. If you go straight with 50 what's done is done!
  14. cyano's Avatar
    what is your magnesium at now? and the speed at which to dose would depend on the amount dosed per increment. ie. someone who dosed more would obviously have to wait longer before dosing again rather than a little at a time more often.
  15. DJ in WV's Avatar
    If you have trouble with algae they are one of the best, but not for a tank with a occasional outbreak
  16. NoDoze's Avatar
    My sea hare has been with me for years! He does an awesome job at keeping the sand and low level rocks clean of algae. Because the snails can't crawl on the sand, and mainly stay on the glass and rocks, the sea hare has free range on the sand bed. They can't climb on their own, but can squeeze themselves between rocks to climb. He's never knocked anything over, but I think that's because he doesn't like the taste of coral: soft, sps, lps...he cringes when he tastes it. He also ALWAYS steers clear of the anemones. I would recommend it to anyone with a large enough tank to maintain enough green pastures

    ...forgot to mention... I've only read about sea hares ejecting their ink, or whatever it is. I've had rocks fall on him, and have pinched him with the forceps to lift and move him, never seen him eject anything! I think you REALLY have to make them feel threatened to get them to ink. And when they die? I would remove anything that died ASAP, especially if it was too big for the scavengers to eat up within an hour. ...On second thought... the only real thing I dislike about the sea hare is their poop! It's BIG, DARK, and takes forever to dissolve! Ewwwhhh! LOL!!!
  17. baker.shawn's Avatar
    id stay away from them if possible
  18. RED's Avatar
    they are reef safe... However if they die, you need to get it out fast... They release nasty stuff that will flip out the tank... they also knock over rock and corals that are not secured. I love the little guys, but have a difficult time keeping them alive for more than 6 months.
  19. dzrtrataz's Avatar
    I believe all they eat is algea. If you don't have enough it will die.
  20. blennyman's Avatar
    You know, something strange about Aiptasia - I've had the experience a few times where I'm "aiptasia free" for months and one just pops up out of the ether. 1/2" to 1" long and ready to sting the crap out of one of my corals. I haven't bought live rock for a LONG time - only introduced a few corals (frags) and/or fish in the last year. Yet I had to go and kill about 3 of these little buggers. Where are they hiding? How do they get in there?
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