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What you might do is limit how much is in the ATO as well. That way no matter what if every drop went into the tank, it wouldn't hurt your system. I used kalkwasser for three weeks with my 280g. The ATO reservoir held 15g of solution, so all of that at once wouldn't raise pH much at all (8.6 at most).

Why would it all add at once? A skimmer overflowing non-stop is one way. Been there, done that. Not a fan.

Thanks for the quick feedback. Recently I've been testing alk on a daily basis and check cal about every other day; really only takes 2-3 minutes. I think I'll give kalk a try with the 1tsp per gallon. I'll see what effect it has on my alk/cal and either supplement with dosing mite 2part or reducing the kalk to 1/2 or 3/4 tsp per gallon. My hope is to get it so all I will need is kalk, which i believe is doable with majority of my corals being small frags. I suppose the increased PH will be a good thing as my PH hovers around 7.8-8.0. I'll have to add some additional precautionary measures to my ATO float valve so that it won't get stuck on. I think having my apex detecting a high PH, then shutting off the ato pump and sending me a message will help. Of course if kalk turns out to work well for my system, the next step would be to upgrade to dosing it individually with a stirrer, but let's not get ahead of ourselves! I'll add the kalk to the ato tomorrow. Wish me luck, and thanks again Marc

When I dosed ESV's B-Ionic, you were supposed to dose the equal amounts daily. I always dosed in the morning when pH was the lowest. To avoid overdosing, you are going to have to test frequently. Weekly would be ideal, on the same day and time for a consistent baseline. I was dosing milliliters. For the 29g, 15ml of Part A and 15 ml of Part B. Each one was poured slowly over a 20-30 second period in an area of high flow (where the water rippled hard in front of a powerhead). For the 55g, I used 30ml of each.

Kalkwasser is 1 teaspoon per gallon. Mix it well, let it settle out for an hour before hooking it up. Yes, don't pump the sediment nor the surface scum. You want the liquid between it. No, you don't have to remix it or anything. Once the container needs refilling, you can clean it out and start anew. I don't use kalkwasser because the pH is 12 and if an ATO doesn't stop flowing it will flood the tank with high pH water killing livestock.

Here's a page Google found for me. It's actually not a real website, but looks like one. I was working on a newer layout a long time ago.
http://beta.melevsreef.com/biopellets

Would you mind posting a pic of your modded part (or is there a pic of the part in your review)? Thank you again. Will keep you updated!

Take the intake of the Mag 9.5 with you to the store and see what fits in front of it. My skimmer uses an Eheim pump, so I used a Tee fitting that I dremeled out to make it hold onto the intake. Then I installed a cap on the opposite end, drilled a hole that the 1/2" tubing would fit through and that has worked well for this setup.

Melev, thanks for the detailed response in answering all my questions. I will look into what options are available for adding some sort of fitting on the mag 9.5 for the biopellet output. Would BRS be a good place to start? I know they have several different plumbing parts. I'll also check Lowes. So what I'm looking for is some type of fitting that fits on the mag intake, that allows water to be drawn in normally, but also has a tube fitting teed off. This sound about right? Also, where in the sump would you suggest i place the biopellet reactor pump, or does that not really matter? Thanks again for all your help. I will keep everyone updated by posting updates on this blog.

Dustin, congrats on your new reactor. In one of my product reviews, I know I've typed up a list of suggestions for you to follow, but in the meantime I'll answer your direct questions.

Don't use your skimmer pump to feed the reactor. The AquaC EV-series needs the right pressure on the clover-leaf injector. Be sure you clean that injector every two months or so. It doesn't take long, but if you don't stay on top of it, the skimmer just doesn't work as well as it could.

I'd suggest a pump that moves 300-500gph for the biopellet reactor. You'll want to install a ball valve to control how much the pellets tumble within, and in that particular reactor you'll see movement that resembles a rotation cloud similar to a tornado. Slow moving, spinning round and round.

Maybe I'm nuts, but I do just fill my reactor every single time, and have done so since the first time I used them. If you feel more comfortable putting in 25% initially, that's fine. In a few weeks, add another 25%. As the pellets are consumed by the bacteria, you'll have to replenish anyway. With this particular reactor, it's possible to not notice that the volume has reduced because they are in suspension flowing in rotation. If you stop the flow to the reactor, you'll quickly see how much is left. You could check this every couple of weeks, and mark the reactor with a piece of masking tape if you wish.

It will probably take six weeks to get them to kick in. The bacteria levels within need to populate. Once they reach a certain threshold, they'll become beneficial to the reduction of NO3 and PO4. For the time being, keep the GFO online. Later, you can remove it if you like. (One less reactor to deal with, right?) I don't use GFO, and haven't in nearly 10 years.

Dose Microbacter 7 weekly, according to the instructions. I dose all bacteria in an area of high flow, either in the reef directly or in the baffles of my sump where plenty of water movement occurs.

If you install some type of fitting on the intake of the Mag 9.5, you can lock the tubing from the AquaMaxx reactor to flow directly into the pump. This is ideal, and keeps the waste from the effluent going right into the collection cup.

Keep your biopellet reactor running at all times. If you have a power outage, be sure to get that reactor running when you turn on your "must have" life support gear. The bacteria in the reactor will die without circulation. This isn't something to panic about, nor will it happen instantly, but within an hour of a power outage, I fire up the generator and keep mine flowing.

Nice, everything is doing quite well!! Congrats on your new frag, too.

I'd say that first one isn't encrusting, although as you can see it isn't making a swirling cap as one would expect. Mine does the same thing - and I bet it has to do with the type of flow it's getting.

The premise of changing out sections of miracle mud is by design, so it should be fine. You'll end up sucking out some of those bugs in the process, but I don't see how you could avoid that. You can try to scoop it out, siphon it out, or shop-vac it out... but when you add the new stuff your tank will undoubtedly get muddy in the process for a day.

We look forward to your future blog entries, and that one sounds like a great topic indeed.

Thank you Marc for the fast response and great info! After comparing them to the links you provided, those are definitely Amphipods and a Stomatella (I never heard of this one before). Looking at my rock in my main display I also identified tons of Copepods. You are probably correct about the swarms being Mysids, but I cannot confirm this due to them being SO small and looking like they are swimming in swarms rather than running on the substrate/rock. In any case, these are all great signs of a well established and healthy aquarium. I started my tank with all dry rock, getting a pod culture from reefcleaners.com. I love that place and definitely suggest their $10 pod package. The second video is not the best quality and it was real difficult to get a clear video or picture of those creatures.
Regarding my miracle mud question, do you believe my plan to swap out 50% of the miracle mud in the refugium would not negatively affect my system or the life in their (at least not wipe it out)?

Again, Thank you for your expert advise and information. Much appreciated! I plan to post a new blog very soon about a little convention I went to recently hosted by my local reef club Greater Iowa Reef Society (GIRS) and LiveAquaria in Des Moines. Happy reefing! ~Dustin

Dustin,

In the first video, the very first creatures we see is an Amphipod. You'll easily spot those because of their size. The tiny bugs running around are mysids. Mysis are shrimp shaped, mysids are runners.
http://melevsreef.com/critters/amphipod
http://melevsreef.com/critters/mysis-shrimp (I call them mysis on this page, but I'm almost positive they are mysids)

In the second video, it never focused but it looked like something near the end of the video was eating those moving targets.

In the third video, that's a stomatella that looked like it couldn't get traction to move from that spot. Those are great grazers, and will eat algae in your tank.
http://melevsreef.com/critters/stomatella

Thank you Melev. I've been trying to find the pos/neg of high Mg lots of places with no luck until now! I believe my Mg must be lower that what the Red Sea kit shows bc my snails show no neg signs what-so-ever; I keep seeing more and more, and have several baby snails in my fuge...nearly 50 or so by now. And if it is high, its not bothering the snails and my new Monti will benefit. I will get the Salifert I also will take off the horizontal DI canisters as I agree with you. That larger dual DI canister was a needed upgrade. Thanks again and hope you post pictures of your Hawaii trip when you return (as well as the 400g re-build)! - Dustin

The only way to get Mg to go down is to have a lower Mg-containing brand of salt, but Reef Crystals isn't known to be high. I'd recommend a different kit for this one test, like Salifert. Higher Mg is hard on snails, which can paralyze them. Montipora loves high Magnesium, so there's the tradeoff. You'd need a lot of Montipora to suck it down, assuming it is even as high as the RedSea kit indicates.

I'd remove the two top horizontal housings, as they are inefficient. You have the newer ones that are fare more effective, so you'll be set.

Melev - Thanks for the input. I actually have a set of filters on back order, and one extra sediment filter. The sediment and first carbon filter are grossly brown! The salt I use is Reef Crystals. I measured just the salt mix recently and also got a high Mg level using my Red Sea kit. I think it must be my kit unless you have heard of Reef Crystals salt to be known to have high Mg? I'm at a loss. Also do you know what types of consequences high Mg has on a reef system (in particular the negative), and any way to lower it (other than water changes)? What do you suggest I do from the information I have given you regarding this Mg issue? Thank you!

Midnight - Yes, the top 2 canisters are DI. They are just too small for the poor quality of water I have to convert it to zero TDS. I believe I can leave those 2 top DI canisters empty and will get zero TDS now with the 2 bigger DI canisters (or more simply, remove them and just connect to the dual DI canisters). I definitely think you are right that in the long run, if it were possible to get a TDS of zero from just adding another membrane or multiple sizes of sediment filters, it would be mush less expensive due to the expense of DI, but for me, this was the simpler and fastest way to hook it up and the advice I followed from the company who made my RODI unit. Four DI's does seem excessive, but I am pretty confident that all I needed was just larger DI canisters (when the DI needs filling, I will see what happens when not filling the top two). Hope that makes sense and thanks for the input!

Or run multiple sizes of sediment filters and add a pump? Four DI's just seems excessive

Can you explain more on your RODI? I can't seem to follow how it flows and what the top two canisters are? Also, although it will get you to zero, isn't more DI's the more expensive way to do it long run? Wouldn't it be better to use a second membrane?

Dustin, thanks for sharing your tank with us. It looks nice and clean. Too bad your city's water is so bad, but it looks like you'll get that under control. Your prefilters need to be replaced now, they are shot. That first sediment can be swapped out more often if you like, as it is clogging up and can decrease water pressure to the membrane. It's the cheapest of the filters, fortunately.

What brand of salt do you use? I had the same problem with the RedSea Mg kit.

Melev - Thank you for the info. I will make a trip to Lowes and check online for prices.

For refugium lighting, you'll want something around the 6500 Kelvin range, which is considered daylight. As you approach the redder spectrum, you may see even better results. I used a 5100 K bulb for years, one I purchased online and recommended to others. It is a self-contained floodlight that only uses 23w of power, and doesn't need a reflector.

You may find some type of LED floodlight at Home Depot or Lowes, and you are looking for bright white lighting. If it has a Kelvin rating or a phone number to call to ask, that's what I'd be looking for.