Blog Comments

#1 because it never would wick into the joint completely, and #2 because you can't get access from within the bubble trap. It's far better to patch over an area like this, creating an additional barrier water can't get past.

Couldn't have just used the weld-on 16 by itself? Not sure of why it wouldn't have closed up the existing acrylic with just the solvent.

I'm glad I was able to help. Nice job.

Originally Posted by Robb in Austin

Nice video.

Since you are running only 2 drains, aren't you running a Herbie Method overflow vs a BeanAnimal one?

I've got a BeanAnimal on my 75, and it's a very quite and safe system. A bit over engineered, but nice.

In many ways you are correct that with two lines it is closer to the Herbie Method.

The reasons I'm calling it a Bean Animal setup are:

1. The documentation and instructions are fantastic on the BeanAnimal site and wanted to give him credit for it.
2. I have two of the same sized pipes.
3. I used an inverted - durso like setup for both pipes versus an open pipe for the Herbie.
4. The 3rd line is not needed for me because of the sump design - I have the emergency relief in that I can't pump all the water out of my sump.
5. I plan to put the airline tube in to create a syphon on the 2nd line if needed.

Thanks for the comments!

Nice video.

Since you are running only 2 drains, aren't you running a Herbie Method overflow vs a BeanAnimal one?

I've got a BeanAnimal on my 75, and it's a very quite and safe system. A bit over engineered, but nice.

Typically the third standpipe should never be used since its only an emergency overflow. You dial in the full siphon standpipe to run at max capacity without "flushing" the overflow box. The second standpipe just handles the excess, and since its not a spihon, there is a little be of drain noise, but I cannot hear it unless I get right on top of the standpipe.

Originally Posted by melev

Why can't we see the street elbows in the Durso standpipes? Are they black?

The sound of freshwater is vastly different than saltwater. It's a major difference.

Normally the bubble tower is about 3-4" taller than the skimmer zone, and the pipe should only be submerged 1/2" under the water. Anything more will often result in the burping effect you noted.

Yes the street elbows are black and I've ordered more parts to get all the plumbing black.

I have full strength saltwater in the system now and I can comment that the sound is similar and much better with the "bean animal" method.

I can also confirm that I tried many different depths of the pipe in the bubble tower and always had the burping. And since you made the sump I'm sure it has followed the correct dimensions.

The key thing here is that you don't get anywhere near the amount of bubbles with this method. This means little to no salt creep and and much less noise in the system. So in essence you don't need a bubble tower since you don't have bubbles.

Thanks for watching.

Why can't we see the street elbows in the Durso standpipes? Are they black?

The sound of freshwater is vastly different than saltwater. It's a major difference.

Normally the bubble tower is about 3-4" taller than the skimmer zone, and the pipe should only be submerged 1/2" under the water. Anything more will often result in the burping effect you noted.

Originally Posted by Articfox32

Does this only work on a 3 drain setup or can it be used on a 2 drain setup?

I only have 2 drains on my system; this is because of the design of my sump will not allow the entire sump to empty if both drains were to get backed-up.

In the video I do a couple of different failure tests including backing up both drains. If your tank can handle whatever volume is in your sump (or at least the part it can drain) then you don't need the 3rd drain.

I'm really happy with the results of this method.

Does this only work on a 3 drain setup or can it be used on a 2 drain setup?

I'll add another voice of support for this system. It super quiet and really simple to set up. I just got it up and running this past Sunday, and took just a few minutes to dial in. Remember than the two primary standpipes should only be an inch or two under the waterline in the sump and that only the closed siphon requires the valve. More information can be found here: http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx

Thanks much for the video i was pretty sure i was going to go with that style on my next tank and now i am convinced. Great video

So do you have a full blown reef back up?

next time a good one inch even 3/4 inch hose can syphon sand quickly. i usely use a brute trash cans with wheels and fill them up, as water fills i pump it out in yard and save sand in the trash cans

looking good cant wait to see how it looks

Wow!!! Learned something new. Glad FlammySnake came along when he did.

Also look directly below the first FAQ about parasitic snails and you'll see another FAQ about Magnesium levels being out of proper ratio with calcium.

Between the two, figuring out how to get rid of the parasitic snail and getting your Magnesium in proper ratio with your calcium, you'll likely figure out what's been going on with your tank.

Fingers crossed.

Blakew

Originally Posted by FlammySnake

I haven't been around in a while, so this is the perfect time to make a comeback, as reef creature identification is my thing!
Those are what's killing your snails. Similar to the small snails that kill clams! Plenty of mollusk killing snails exist so myself narrowing it down to a species(or even a genus) in a few minutes isn't going to happen. I'm sure others will disagree with me, but thats ok. Someone needs to be the lone voice of dissent! You should send that picture to Bob Fenner, I bet he'll back me up!
Seriously though, I'm fairly certain those are killing your snails. Good luck with eradication!

Thanks for the tip: I never heard of Bob Fenner but I did a Google search and found his web site. Looked up snail diseases and right there top of the list is this picture and article:




http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snaildisfaqs.htm

This explains what's going on now I need to figure out what to do about it.

Thanks again.

I haven't been around in a while, so this is the perfect time to make a comeback, as reef creature identification is my thing!
Those are what's killing your snails. Similar to the small snails that kill clams! Plenty of mollusk killing snails exist so myself narrowing it down to a species(or even a genus) in a few minutes isn't going to happen. I'm sure others will disagree with me, but thats ok. Someone needs to be the lone voice of dissent! You should send that picture to Bob Fenner, I bet he'll back me up!
Seriously though, I'm fairly certain those are killing your snails. Good luck with eradication!

the snails that have been dying haven't been just old snails have they? also in my tank I can only seem to have so many turbos alive at a time it's almost like they out compete for food. the ceriths typically burrow underground so it seems to me that A. baby snails should = a good sign since babies are less hardy than adult versions and B. if it is something in the DSB the ceriths should be affected first I would think since they typically stay under the sand or near the sandbed during the day.

as blake said a high magnesium level is not good for snails and in my experience when I raised the magnesium levels to fight bryopsis it seemed the turbo snails got hit the hardest. they couldn't stay upright, became lethargic, and would die from apparent weakness and subsequent starvation, they did not have the strength to stay "stuck" to glass or rocks

Yeah agreed, look like baby ceriths to me also...never known them to be a problem.

Things that are reported to be a problem with turbo snails are:
(1) changes in salinity, (2) low calcium, (3) changes in magnesium levels, (4) I believe I remember reading most Turbo Snails are from the Gulf of Mexico and actually do better with tank temps around 76° which is cooler than most run their tanks (but that wouldn't account for the other snail deaths you've been having)

I believe you said your magnesium was high in another post, have you verified the high level?

At this point I'm inclined to say something nasty may be leaking out of the plentum/DSB. Odd though that the shrimp are fine but the snails are dying. If the snail did fine in the bucket where your cooking rock, but began dying in the tank, I think unfortunately, it's time to set up a hospital/temporary tank(s), move everything to the temp tank(s) and start over with the main tank...maybe think about going without the plenum and DSB this go around.?

Blakew