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my sump is a 30 gallon aquarium and it does have a bracing on top. I just didn't include that in the drawing.

How thick is your sump walls just a small frag tank but is still 40lbs of sloughing water will a high center of gravity. Plus I dont see a top brace on the sump which would help prevent sprawling of the walls. using .220 which is probably what they will sell you as 1/4 you would defiantly want to add a few stiff backs across it but Marc is right 3/8 would defiantly be better for the bottom.

I'd rather you make that tank out of 3/8" since you plan to float it on the sump. It'll be stronger. With 1/4", you'd want a solid board placed under the tank to support it evenly, but that kills your lighting idea.

A Maxijet 1200 would be my choice, and I'd have it drain back into the skimmer section to avoid microbubbles in the return zone.

i would use a MJ900 as for placement i have no idea, just use loc line and some fittings and you can angle the flow however you want

I dont know what kind of starfish that is all I know is that the store I got it from in lansing called it a "reef-safe" starfish. If you find the name of it please tell me. I will try to get a full tank shot as soon as I clean the very tough algae of my glass.

I love that star fish. What kind is it?

I have those in my sump too, in the pumps, in the skimmer, etc... When I did the yearly cleanup of my return pumps I found a lot of those inside the pump impeller, which is quite impressive if you think they rotate fairly quick....

I've developed those white sponges too. I wonder if they are just a low light version of the typical yellow sponge our tanks get.

The squiggly things look like beginning spirobid(sp?) or tube type worms.

Very nice pictures Jato! I would love to se a full tank shot too.

You could I suppose. You can peel it off later but again you still have the challenge of hoping it will go where you want it to live.

A divider (eggcrate) in the display tank would keep the clowns at bay.

Originally Posted by melev

You'll need a lot of light to maintain the anemone in the refugium zone. Why not put the anemone in the tank instead, partitioning it so the clowns can't get to it? That way it can grow in for a while?

You still have the risk of it moving around. I've got a few in my 400g and I have to watch where my corals are and move them out of their way from time to time.

Is it ok to put an anemone in a net breeder? If not then how do you suggest separating it? Again the clownfish are clarkiis and they will go straight into it.

You'll need a lot of light to maintain the anemone in the refugium zone. Why not put the anemone in the tank instead, partitioning it so the clowns can't get to it? That way it can grow in for a while?

You still have the risk of it moving around. I've got a few in my 400g and I have to watch where my corals are and move them out of their way from time to time.

Do your research first not all anemone's are clown friendly.

Originally Posted by Hat39406

Hey Jatj, glad to hear everything is doing good! Does the shark hang out with the Clarkii Clown and or the Hippo Tang? That would be so cool.

The shark likes swimming against the current of the koralia (They swim up stream in natural habitat) the hippo tang seems to hang out with him a lot.

Originally Posted by BackReefer

Cool setup, how long have you had the columbian shark? when did you convert it to full salinity?

I have had my columbian shark for about 3 years until 6 months ago I had him in a fresh water tank (not brackish) then I put him in a 15 gallon tank and every day I took one quart of water out and added one from my reef until it reached the right salinity. He was in the acclimation tank for about a month.

Cool setup, how long have you had the columbian shark? when did you convert it to full salinity?

Hey Jatj, glad to hear everything is doing good! Does the shark hang out with the Clarkii Clown and or the Hippo Tang? That would be so cool.

The second it says mold free is no bueno for a reef tank.

I am using my own ro filter that tests at 4 tds. My ro filter does not have a DI stage on it so the tds is a little higher than 0. I also use my ro filter for drinking water. I don't know what kind of silicone I used the first time but the tube said 10 year mold free so I scraped it all out and re-did it with the silicone made by All-glass Aquariums.

What are you using for water? Do you have a RO/DI unit? If you using tap water and declorinenator your gonna continue to have a hair algae problem. If your getting your water at a store (wal-mart, lowes etc.) their ro machine probably needs new filters and isn't much better than tap water.

As far as the silicone if you used GE type I then you are ok, if you used Type II then you need to remove all the silicone or you will continue to have trouble. The Type II has a anti mold chemical that will kill a lot of stuff in the tank and will do so even with the uv sterilizer and carbon.