Blog Comments

Welcome back. I'm on google+ but I don't ever use it :P

I'm not cool enough for Google+... they are not allowing any more users to join for now. You guys are ahead of the curve!

Welcome back. I'm also on Google+ - just look for melevsreef and let me know. I have a lot of people in the Friends circle, although Aquaria is a much better idea actually.

Welcome back Neelixx!! I missed reading your post. Give us some pics so we can have a visual of where ya at.

what did you use to create that lay out for your stand like what website?

I'm not a good person to help with this one. The way I use Twitter isn't like the rest of the planet obviously. I think it is a great way to let your customer base know what you are offering, so I sometimes 'advertise' a product via Twitter. Usually I just update all the followers with the latest blog entry here on ReefAddicts.

I don't use RSS, mostly because I don't have a lot of time to follow news stories. I check the headlines of my delivered paper each day, and catch some news on tv. If something major is going on, CNN may run on my tv for a few days. Occasionally I'll log onto Google's News page, or MSN.

So if you find a good selection or even a decent tutorial to show me / us why we need it, I'd check it out.

Twitter is just different. I use Facebook for my friends and family. But I have a Twitter account for my personal/hobby stuff and one for my professional stuff. I just like it because it's sleek and simple. Keeps me "in the know" without reading pages of news articles. Plus, don't have to know someone to follow them.

As far as the build goes, it's been delayed. I was expecting my funds for it to have come in by now...... But, that just gives me more time to fantasize and tweak my designs, which is fun too.

My fantasies have gone so far as to create my own "Open Source" version of the Apex for others to use (except for the probes, obviously). No doubt, that too shall pass. I'm a thinker. Can ya tell?? ((grin))

Im still trying to get use to facebook is twitter any better? Hope your build going well man

You are not that far from North Alabama, and there is a reef club there. NARC- Northern Alabama Reef Club. Not sure if that will help or not. Also, I have a brother in law who lives in the Ardmore area who is also starting out in the saltwater hobby. He is just beginning, but is also looking for people to network with. He is on NARC, so maybe check it out and see what you come across.

I posted a link to this on Facebook to get even more eyes on it.

When we braced our floor, we went with lally columns--expandable steel support columns, one under each corner of the tank, available at home depot type places. The tank sets over a 10" x 10" main beam (old house) made of red oak, but we braced with the steel columns anyway. The floor joists run perpendicular to the tank, and we used a timber between them and the steel columns to distribute bracing more evenly.

Good catch on the 45 degree ends. You definitely want butt-connections instead. It is much stronger that way.

Originally Posted by jlemoine2

I don't think you need the 45 degree cuts on the top and bottom frame corners. There is no aesthetic reason for it if you plan on having the frame "skinned". Based on how your legs are oriented, I would suggest changing the side pieces go your entire width without the 45 degree cut. That way, the legs will still support the seam where the corner pieces come together. The 45 degree will work, it just seems like unnecessary work.

Thanks for that. The miter cuts were not for aesthetics. I was just hoping to get the seam/joint supported by both legs. But, you're right. I can still do it without the miter the way it's setup. Good eyes!

Originally Posted by jlemoine2

My other suggestion is regarding your legs. It's hard to tell from the picture, but it appears that the "screw boards" on the legs extends to the top and bottom of the tank frame. If so, these boards may end up supporting some of the weight and put a shearing force on the screws or bolts that attach it to the leg

Actually, I wasn't using them as "screw boards" though, it was a thought. The primary purpose was to take some of the center weight off the bottom of the tank, but I didn't want all that weight on the bottom frame. If you look, rather than making splines, the center "joists" for lack of a better term, actually sit on top of them, taking the weight off the bottom frame. I may have overdesigned the stand, but, better safe than sorry, I guess.

But, you are right. Downward stress on 1 may cause some hardship on the screws on the other. But, since they are so close together, the same weight would be supported by both, so it may not be a huge concern, would you think?

Originally Posted by DJ in WV

You should look at your floor tho to see what it is resting on( how it is going to sit on the floor joist) you dont want to put a 3000 lb tank in the middle of a span or over one joist

Yep. Already on that one. It is running parallel with the joists, but I already have a plan for building the supports for underneath. Basically, paver sand underneath low-profile cement blocks with a center 4x4 leg. Then, attach 2x8's underneath the 2x12 joists. Actually, they are the engineered joists, not the standard 2x10's. It's the same setup I use to support my deck.

The "fun" part is the design, the vision, the end result. Getting there.... well..... will take beer, a bit of cursing under my breath, and patience.

Thanks all for everyone's comments!! Just awesome!

Nice design. I too agree the stand will be plenty strong to support 3000 pounds.

I don't think you need the 45 degree cuts on the top and bottom frame corners. There is no aesthetic reason for it if you plan on having the frame "skinned". Based on how your legs are oriented, I would suggest changing the side pieces go your entire width without the 45 degree cut. That way, the legs will still support the seam where the corner pieces come together. The 45 degree will work, it just seems like unnecessary work. Good call on the 4x4's, they are known to twist and crack with age. 2x4's will work just fine.

My other suggestion is regarding your legs. It's hard to tell from the picture, but it appears that the "screw boards" on the legs extends to the top and bottom of the tank frame. If so, these boards may end up supporting some of the weight and put a shearing force on the screws or bolts that attach it to the leg (that part that actually supports the frame). The shearing force required to break screws or bolts is quite large and may not be a concern, but at this design stage it might be worth making a slight alteration so there will be no weight supported by the screw board. This can easily be achieved by making the board slightly shorter on each end. This will still give you enough room to attach the legs to the top and bottom frame, but also eliminate the risk of the board supporting weight... letting the legs do all the work.

I agree with the suggestions to put doors on the ends. You'll probably regret not doing it down the road. When skinning the stand, you'll still need some sort of wooden side around the frame even if you have a door. Those pieces will be enough to prevent shearing... or racking as Melev would say.

Looks like a fun project!

Yea i would add ply or osb to the sides and on front/back which ever side you are not going to access thur You can just shrink the 2x4 cut by the thickness of the ply to keep your outside measurements. As far as your structure you are well within limits for the weight. Glue and screw everything. You should look at your floor tho to see what it is resting on( how it is going to sit on the floor joist) you dont want to put a 3000 lb tank in the middle of a span or over one joist if the length is running with the span. House floors were not meant to carrier that load on such a small foot print so some bracing under could be needed

Actually, it took some convincing to my wife to make this a 24" divider (it was smaller). However, I could add a hinged platform (like a folding table leaf) on one side. Hmmmmmm....

I agree with the idea of a "wider" stand. However, I've also liked (and was going to install) trim work at the top of the stand (base of the tank) for extra support against the bottom seams.

I did consider doors at the end, but 3/4" plywood at each of the ends will help prevent the shearing, while the top and bottom plywood was to prevent rotation. In theory..... Not sure what you mean by "racking", but I think I that's what I mean by "shearing".

HTML Code:

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\                 \               /                           /
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        TOP                                SIDE
      (rotate)                            (shear)

If the stand is bigger, there is more room for everything underneath.

2nd melev's points about the plywood to prevent racking and considering the doors on the side for ease of installation.

...and to extend on his point about an oversized stand, you could even frame it out so that the sump could be a 24w tank as well, please correct me if i'm wrong there marc, as you've got more experience in tank installs than i.

The stand looks plenty strong, although you will hear people suggest gussets in the corners to avoid racking. Screwed and glued plywood will do the same.

You might consider doors on the ends to slide the sump in and out as desired. You might even make the stand bigger than the tank (my favorite suggestion) so that you can have a small shelf that wraps around the tank that is 4 - 6" wide to set things down upon around the tank.