Blog Comments

Sweet... Thanks

ohh, i was just thinking of your last post, other than pond liner, you can also get lamanent floor sound and moisure barrier for under your sump. one it is made fore moisture and 2, it will keep your sump from making direct contact with the floor, and dampen any noise if any. The plus side it comes in a nice roll so is easy to work with.

why put the pond liner, I would finish the excellent job you are doing and use black top sealer on the entire floor. It will water proof and protect the cement from any salt, cement tends to break up with salt. then all you have to worry about is water getting into you living room, but I believe you already stated you made a dam. This will also give your floor a nice solid look and it if you get the airport grade, with grit you won't slip when floor is wet. Keep up the great work, I love reading these posts.

Hang on. I'm thinking about the wall drain you mentioned, and need to point out that sink plumbing is different from how a washing machine drains. A washing machine pumps out the dirty water at a specific rate (no idea how many GPH that is), where a sink conceivably could drain faster with a faucet open full strength. I don't know if the drain in the wall box will keep up. You better check with a plumber on that one, just to be sure. Somewhere, that drain line is going to need a vent pipe so water can exit without gulping, burping, or surging.

No, none at all. Go for it.

Thanks for those additional pictures Marc! I'm going to have a drain in my in-wall plumbing as well, and was thinking of using the same type of in-wall box that you use for a washing machine to provide hot and cold water taps as well as the drain. Anybody see any issues with that approach?

I'd like to cut a liner to fit the base, apply the sealer around three sides, and get things installed. Then the fishroom floor can be painted in the (near) future when I can vent the room well.

Looking at the pics again,you could put down a flat liner,no sides,seal the edges where required,install sump,etc. on top of liner,and call it a day.skip painting the concrete unless you will see it ie in the rest of the room.

if you are only doing under the stand then I would do sealer and then liner.are you painting the whole floor in the room?

Also ,if you used enough of it you could close in the gaps under the stand and direct water werever you needed it to go.Quick question,are you confident about the composite shims " stability wise".They are not attached to the stand or floor in any way correct?

Sounds awesome. So what do you think I should do: Paint the surface with concrete paint and add the sealer around the edge, or put down the rubber liner and then the sealant?

ok,got it.it is a polyuerthane water proof concrete sealant used for foundations and sidewalks.comes in regular sized cauling gun tubes.mine is grey if that matters.paintable and permanently flexible.Made by DAP.no peeling or separation of any kind after several years.Labeled as a waterproof concrete sealant.hth.

That sounds interesting. I'm sure I could even use that spray truck bed liner to get similar results, right? hehe I'm getting really tired of spending money, that's for sure!

I can only imagine the stress of such a project,both mentally and financialy.There is a better solution other than silicone to adhere to concrete.I used an elastomer type used to seal the joints of concrete pools.I used it to seal a laminite floor to a concrete fireplace to an osb sub floor.I'll try to find the specs on that as soon as possible.You have your work cut out for you that's for sure.

I had a few perfect storms! LMAO. It's much worse than that description too. It killed most of the power to the tank room, and I walked in (just recovering from stroke) in about 1" of water and flipped the sub panel breakers back on. They quickly snapped off again, and a huge puff of smoke came out from under the tank. That's the thing about brain injury...youhave no idea how much danger you are in!

Sounds like the perfect storm, Jonathan. I like the pond liner idea simply because it'll keep things tidy, I can wipe up spills around the pumps, and focus any water exactly where it is meant to go. Using only silicone on the concrete allows any saltwater to soak into the concrete. Maybe I could paint it, like the rest of the fishroom floor. Hmmm.

You sir, are a DIY madman! Nice job. I would skip the silicone bead. It just doesn't adhere well to concrete. The thing about creating an under-stand "pond liner" is that you don't know that a leak will originate under the stand. It is more likely to be a cracked hose, failed equipment, etc. and spray somewhere that you have no liner. I would look at it from the standpoint of protecting electrical equipment from such an event, and let the room contain the spill until it drains through your floor drain. If all roads lead to the floor drain, then your only worry is incidental damage from water that is not dripping on the floor directly, but whicking around equipment, electical outlets, cords, etc. I installed my multi-media reactor over my sump so that if it leaked, no harm, no foul. But when it did leak, is sprayed onto an electrical cord outlet, shorted out the power, flooded the room, and took my controller and floor pump out of the picture. It nearly burned down my house, and came within minutes of rupturing one of the return lines. Had that happened, it would have drained my tank. The silicone bead I ran around my rubber baseboard did not perform well, and in fact, released due to the concrete and salt water interaction.

hehe - no.

Awesome Marc. Getting closer to water in the tank every week. Is the Rabbit providing "bio Pellets" for the new system?

Originally Posted by Jnarowe

My Lord, when are you gonna be done dude!!

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Marcelangelo