Ruh Roh.
Sweet! Can't wait to see.
So can anyone just hook up 2 penductors to their exisiting pvc 90 returns that are at the surface? They should be 2" under the surface?
Me too, I think if I use a pair of those in my 150 and a slightly larger return pump than I planned, then the only other flow I'll need will be a pair of MP40's. Good thing I have 1400 gph capacity in the overflows I ordered.
I like the penductors. I'm all for keeping the electrical cords out of the tank as much as possible, and this is one way to do that. We're still settling on a manifold design for the return pump, and I'd like to include the penductors. Not sure my pump has the intestinal fortitude to push the head from the basement, and the back pressure from the penductors.
I need to put a big update over there, so people know more.
If you use the check valve I would suggest placing an isolation valve upstream of it. This way "when" the valve fails you can isolate it to get it to seat off or to remove it for cleaning or replacement. I normally would not suggest the use of a check valve at all, but in a situation like this it is a manageable risk. Also I have been watching your site for several months fearing that you had given up the hobby after your tank sprang a leak only to find this site a few days ago. Needless to say I have been doing a lot of catching up the last few days. LOL
Rarely - The reason for the criss-cross plumbing was because it seemed like it would be easier to move the center three drains from the bubble tower to the filter sock. I did some testing with the four lines trying to get a feel for what would reach best and cooperate easily, and in the end this worked better, although it looks more awkward. That one diagonal drainline is feeding the refugium by itself currently, and the flow is faster than expected. I'm hoping when the other line is opened up, it'll slow down some even though water would be coming out of tandem drains then. I'll let everyone know when I do so. The NP reactor effluent is draining into the Matrix media in the bubble tower, which is just before the protein skimmer's intake pumps. It should work out.
marc, I had the same experience. most of my corals were lost over the 9+ month period between tanks, even though I tried some of the same things you had. good luck repopulating the system!
what a great idea dahenley!
Two things. One why did you cross on return from the other side of the overflow into the fuge. I understand that it would make sure you are getting a good mix of water but I dont think it would make much difference. I read that you should have your BP effluent as close to the skimmer as possible to skim out the bacteria as it sluffs off. Just curious why you did not do this. I like the way you reason stuff out so im curious.
i will say that there is a bunch of back pressure with penductors, and mine were submerged, but i drilled my hole at a little of an angle, and it looked like a super-soaker coming out of the hole. (i was only running a laguna pump too) it came though 1in of water and about 2 inches across from where it came out of the water.. just my experience, so that is why i would go the check valve rout.... we will see how everything turns out though.
I run them all in Reefcrest mode, but I'm going to see what works best in the new tank.
In what mode do you run your Vortechs?
I'm using 3/4" but you can buy 1" as well from PremiumAquatics.com
are those 1/2 or 3/4 Marc
keep posting because i just ordered 4 today and have never used them before either
My anti-siphon holes are always submerged. I was going to drill one in the base of the Tee that touches the water, but I've never had penductors before and wasn't sure what would happen. Pete had them on his last tank and didn't have a problem though.
I agree with Dahenley I have a siphon hole and it makes my overflow noisy and sprays water everywhere. Not fun.
Marc if you put the check valve to where the flap sitting in the closed position, then it will work. that way it doesnt require actual water flow across it to force it to close it, the actual air/water pressure produced when the pump is turned on will close it, then thats perfect. Alaska_phil The penductor acts like the enductors. if your familiar with oldschool "carberators" the inside of that fitting on the end of the locline necks down from 1" to about 1/4 of an inch and increases the velocity of the water. (like putting your thumb on the water hose) then the open area between it and the funky shaped tip allows water to be sucked in with the supercharged water which increases the flow by 4X Chevrolet took this idea and used it on the new Duramax trucks. if you look at the exhaust, when the smoke comes out, it is mixed with fresh air and thus disperses the smoke and looks better. (it was their way around the new NO SMOKE laws.) ford did the same thing under the truck and again with that funky double tip as well.