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Marc is it advised to run Biopellets on a new setup? What volume of BP are you going with and what flow do you have them on? any signs of bacterial bloom or Cyano?
I don't have a good water change system in place yet, but hope to in the next month or two. I was given some advice on FB by Brett to lower the Alkalinity to 8 dKH because of the NP pellets. SPS apparently get burned tips with higher alkalinity, so I'm adjusting the calcium reactor accordingly. I do have a little bit of burnt tips happening on a few frags, but didn't know it was due to the NP pellets. I'll have to keep an eye on that and see if it proves to be true.
Marc...great to see the tank off to smooth start.
Sounds like things are doing good, was hoping to make it down to NextWave but since I was dealing with a major staph infection earlier this month and still recovering funds just didn't allow it. Hopefully next year will work better or at some other point in time but I know I can count on you to take quite a few pics for us all.
Thank You!
Curious on how you do a water change. Can you sump handle a full 50g change, or do you do a little at a time? I'm designing a 250g tank, and would like the sump to be big enough to do a full change, but I may be over-reaching here.
Marc, Glad to see the new tank is progressing nicely!
Good to know. If my tank was at about 1.022 would that have caused me to loose that coral (i think some one said it looked like a star polyp)?
I stay at 1.026sg / 35ppt since that is what is normal for where the corals we keep come from.
with Ca so high, I would expect a coraline explosion fairly soon!
Hey Marc quick question on your salinity. I was of the understanding that it should be at a range of 1.020-1.024. Do you find better results with 1.026 and would the .002 points make much of difference? Thanks
I would be getting them at a LFS. I don't want to introduce them and have them bring something and wipe out my tank. If I could get my LFS to do the QT that would be great.
Yes, that is true. With the lowered pH during transport, ammonia isn't toxic yet, but as pH levels rise due to greater oxygen levels, ammonia quickly becomes an issue. It really depends where you are getting your fish - local vs online.
And airstones in acclimation buckets can cause dramatic pH and temperature swings.
They needs tons of oxygen, so faster acclimation is better actually. Or an airstone in the holding container if you wanted to take your time. I've tried to quarantine Anthias many times, but it never played out well for me. They want to be fed often, like nature.
Always 1" apart. That means a full 1" gap between the baffles.
How far apart are your baffles? I'm making a sump out of a 29 gal, and I was wondering how far apart to set the baffles. I'm probably going to use pieces of PVC cut to various lengths to set the tolerances and levels of the acrylic panels. Mostly because I'd like to run a decent looking bead of silicone and the PVC sections would make it easy to hold the panel in place while I silicone the acrylic pieces in.
Marc, I see where Savko has a good selection of black PVC parts, but where are you ordering the black flexible PVC?
Where do you get your VHO bulbs from Marc?