Blog Comments

Mike, this isn't a selling forum and the Classified section was removed after a recent site attack. Sorry to hear you're leaving. Craigslist is a good way to sell locally, as well as on club forums within driving distance.

You could go online and get a specialized refugium light or if price is an issue, I'd suggest going to Lowes or HomeDepot and getting a bulb around the 6500 Kelvin range which is close to "daylight". You could even get a self-contained floodlight that doesn't even need a reflector. I had the same question but thanks to Marcs advice, I got a new bulb closer in Kelvin to the 6500 range and my Chaeto has tripled in size. - gettareef

Check your local Sam's or Costco, as they sell some pocket cameras that can be submerged. I know Olympus has some that can go to 10 meters deep (30' basically). They shoot video and stills, and are affordable. If you were to use a Nikon or Canon, the water proof cases are insanely expensive. When I checked for my D70, it was like $4500 for the camera alone, not including the flash strobe assembly. I don't know if I'd ever take my D90 underwater.

Originally Posted by melev

Yep, you'll need a new impellar. That came from Euroreef right? Try contacting Reef Dynamics, as that is the company's new name / business.

I contacted coralVue they are sending mea new pump. now my question is how to determine if i can get just a impeller to have a backup pump?

its a browser addon midnight usually a search bar

Tend to agree with Midnight, the integrity of the impeller well (hole) may be compromised which could lead to excessive play on a new impeller. If further wear were to occur inside that well water could enter the motor windings leading to fire or worse electrocution.

@Midnight....
See no imbedded adds on Safari browser from my end. I appreciate your concern for others safety from your end though. Keep up the good work.

I am seeing imbedded adds on this blog only, is that reefaddicts.com or is that some in my browser doing that? the word business is Marc's reply and the word power in Umike's post have imbeeded adds attached to them?

Gotta service that skimmer every now and again. is that the sleeve form inside the motor or is it just impeller. you may need a new pump, because that looks like it is impeller and the internal sleeve in that pic.

Yep, you'll need a new impellar. That came from Euroreef right? Try contacting Reef Dynamics, as that is the company's new name / business.

It only took one day yes he spit it out.

Originally Posted by melev

So the LTA tried to eat some plastic eggcrate material? It'll spit it out on its own.

So the LTA tried to eat some plastic eggcrate material? It'll spit it out on its own.

I'll second everything melev said. And add that my softies seem to do better when my Alk is 9.0 to 10.0 dKh.

The higher calcium level is hard on the corals like your mushrooms and zoanthids. Whenever you dose, never pour over your tank. Pour the bottle into a small dosing cup, then hold that over the water. This avoids spills. Same with fishfood. You don't want to bump a bottle into your tank.

I would suggest you bring everything up to these levels:

Salinity: 1.026sg
Alkalinity: 8 dKH or 2.86 meg/L
Calcium: 425ppm
Magnesium: 1350ppm

If you get those numbers, pH will probably rise a little higher.

To get a good start on these numbers, mix up a batch of saltwater and measure it first. Let it mix for a few hours (or for a day), then test everything. If you do a few big water changes, the aquarium will quickly get back on track if your salt mix is a good balance of these numbers.

alk is probably in meq no in dkh format

Mag is a little low. (most people try to keep it up 1300, but for a softie tank, its probably not as big of a deal)
Alk.... (WOW) it should be 7-11 DKH
Alk is probably your problem.
Have you done a water change lately? Some salts randomly have low values in some areas. Double check this reading, and if its that low, you should dose slowly over a few days to bring it up. (i think 1-2 DKH per day is MAX to raise in a parameter.)
If you have done a recent water change, make up a small batch of water and test it. (if its low, then E-mail the company that the salt is made by, and let them know. (theres probably a batch # that they will want to know.))
Some companies will send you a replacement so just throwing that out there.

Double check that your Test Kit is good to.

From what I remember ick has a larval stage in the water for weeks or months even if no fish are in the tank. So even if you remove the wrasses there is a good chance your other fish my get it. I'd put all the fish in a hospital tank with a copper based medication. Good luck as I have never had success once I get a ick outbreak. Then again I'm stubborn and always wait way to long to act.

That really sucks. Try dipping all the fish in freshwater for three to five minutes. I would just move the wrasse over to the quarintine tank for now and if signs show on the other fish I would move them all over. I know it stinks a few months ago this parasite killed all my fish. But try treating the wrasse with some sort of medication in the quarintine tank. I used a medication called rid ich on my fish but unfortunatelly it was too late. If you use rid ich watch out it permenately dies the seal of an aquarium blue. But this should not be a big deal if used on your quarintine tank. Good luck.
t

Test your pH at different times of day, and write down the time and results. pH is at its highest usually about 7 hours after the lights have been on, but not after 10 hours. It begins to drop after that. That kit is cheap and easy to test frequently. You can test in the early AM, then around noon, then 5pm, the 8 pm, then 11 pm and track the way it rises and falls.

What about feeding your tank? Check experation dates on bottles of chemicals.