Blog Comments

  1. Midnight's Avatar
    cool pics, what do you feed your eel?
  2. upster's Avatar
    That baffle for the return section will usually be the shortest piece in the sump. Typically sumps are designed to allow water to flow through the baffles from the drain section to the return. A small drop into the return section is nothing to worry about. As water evaporates you will notice the water level in the return section continuing to drop. That is why people place float switches in their return sections.

    If you add water to the sump (or DT) the water level in the return section will continue to rise. Assuming that you have an overflow bow in the DT, the only place you will see differences in water level should be the return section. The water level in the DT will never change, that is what the sump is for. All you can do is overflow the sump.
  3. u mike's Avatar
    I got all the large bits of silicone off just wasn't sure what to use to get the glass clean.
    thanks U MIKE
  4. michika's Avatar
    My tank builder also told me to use straight Acetone. It stinks and I don't recommend it unless you're in an extremely well ventilated area.
  5. melev's Avatar
    You can clean the tank with rubbing alcohol where you plan to re-glue it. However, razor blades are the only way to cut that stuff out, usually. Some use a very fine wire like a piano string or the smallest (E) string on a guitar to cut it. Wear gloves so the wire doesn't bite into your flesh.
  6. melev's Avatar
    Yes, that is still fine Mike.
  7. u mike's Avatar
    it may be wrong i tried to follow a pic of onr that I found on this site, it was a 20 gal I was just looking for that one again just can't seem to find it. where I think I went wrong is the middle baffle this is 11" the ones on ech side of that are 8". i was under the impression that as long as it was 1" off the bottom it was all right.
  8. slickrick18766's Avatar
    fit under>finger slip haha
  9. slickrick18766's Avatar
    nice i am going to be doing something like that with a 29g i have i am going to be tuning it into a sump for my 150g the only thing is i am worried if it is going to fin under in my stand my 150 is only 4 feet long its not one of the 6 foot ones witch kind of sucks i hope my 29g fits under and as i was looking at your sump i noticed you bubble trap looks diffrent then most of the traps in the plans that i have been looking at is it some kind of different bubble trap
  10. melev's Avatar
    I don't see a problem with the skimmer in that depth. As was stated in your other blog, it takes time for a skimmer to break in. If you want to make a small 2" stand to put the skimmer on (eggcrate is an easy choice, using zipties to hold its shape), you can.

    You need to adjust it all the way down, and leave it running like that for a couple of days. Then you'll adjust it slightly to raise the foam up the cone shape a little. The next day, raise it up into the neck, about halfway. Leave it there and see how it does.

    Are you testing it with freshwater, or is that saltwater? Freshwater will not foam whatsoever, but if you want to see a reaction in freshwater, add vinegar. Remember to drain out all that water and vinegar from your entire system before you add your saltwater and livestock. Vinegar makes pH plummet, which your livestock can't tolerate.
  11. melev's Avatar
    Replying in your other blog now.
  12. Mccoy85's Avatar
    From what I came across the skimmer should be in anywhere from 6" to 10" of water. Reef octopus' website also says that there is a 2 to 3 week break in period before you will see the maximum foaming.
  13. u mike's Avatar
    I spoke to the place where I purched skimmer told them my problem, told them how much water was in that section they told me to lose 2'. with doing that all section must turn into 6".when i was looking for a skimmer the footprint was as follewed 9.5 x 7.5 x 20.5 that is why i went with a 8" baffle.
  14. melev's Avatar
    What depth is the skimmer supposed to be in?

    All three baffles should be the same height, the middle one is raised up 1.5" from the base of the sump.
  15. u mike's Avatar
    I went with the octupos 1000 sss cone, when i was looking for a skimmer this was the best fit for what will fit in the cabinet. I will send another pic. back to the baffles i have decided to cut them out & have them cut the question is do i cut all 3 that make up the bubble trap to the same size or dp i leave the middle one long.
  16. melev's Avatar
    Hang on. What skimmer is it? I can't see it in the picture. What depth is the skimmer supposed to be in? How much do you think you need to raise it up? A few inches?

    Your return pump needs to be rotated so the intake is pointed to the far left, away from the final baffle. Raise up the water level in that section so it only falls 1" - that will help avoid bubbles.

    Put something like a sponge or some type of rubber under the pump to keep it quiet.

    The overflow box hanging inside your tank should be submerged at the height that the water line is still hidden behind the plastic trim. You don't want to see a gap of light, right?
  17. marks69's Avatar
    cut out the baffels and lower them. i made mine to high but thought to put in a shelf for the skimmer to sit on. this way if i upgrade i can just remove the shelf. of course now i can't get the skimmer out to clean but is seemed like a good idea.lol
  18. JABlacher's Avatar
    If your skimmer does need to be in shallower water, then you do need to lower the baffles providing that you cannot raise your skimmer as you stated due to limited height.
  19. u mike's Avatar
    I just came back from hardware store they cut the last section down to 8" so now i have this.

    8" 11" (still one inch off bottom) 8" 8" with eggcrate.
    let me know what you think.
  20. u mike's Avatar
    thanks sounds good to me.
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast