Blog Comments

Definitely bring up your magnesium. Right now it works because of the lower calcium level. I prefer to keep it at 1300ppm, if not higher. Montipora loves Mg.

I actually keep a log in an excel spreadsheet that I have set up. I enter the date and I have a formula that calculates automatically the number of days the tank has been running since restart. As I enter test results the boxes I have set to turn automatically green if they fall with in my set parameters, red if they are too high or too low, and yellow if I enter DNT for Did Not Test. I also have a box right next to my magnesium results that will multiply my calcium x3 to tell me what my magnesium should be reading. The final box past all my test results allows me to enter any other important information. I will enter when I did a water change, how much water, how much additives (if any) I have used, and any other noticeable changes with my tank (diatom bloom started, diatom bloom ended, when corals were added ect.)

Correct. That's why we don't want them in saltwater or even near it.

Melev- I agree. Those clamps are stainless steel. I realize there are some risk involved with them and will likely change them out once I place an order online. Thats the one thing I researched in the Laguna pump and determines they use all stainless steel parts. Even with that, stainless will most likely rust over time.

Metal should never be in saltwater, ever. Any item we can use as an alternative to metal is best. Some pumps have screws, like Mag pumps. I would replace those screws with stainless steel just in case, since there wasn't any other viable option.

I was cleaning up some pumps recently that I got from another hobbyist, and the top fitting was discolored due to use. Turns out it was brass - huge no-no in this hobby. Various metals are toxic to our livestock.

Originally Posted by melev

Everything looks good - nice find. Please replace that metal hose clamp with an all plastic version. You can purchase those from MarineDepot or similar e-tailer.

Melev...what are the negative effects of using metal clamps? I know they will rust with time but am just curious to other negative effects or the consequences of the rust build up on them as those are what I use. Thanks!

Everything looks good - nice find. Please replace that metal hose clamp with an all plastic version. You can purchase those from MarineDepot or similar e-tailer.

Welcome back to the obsession. We look forward to your next blog entry.

Also depends on the type of cement you are using. The standard glue dries faster than the rain or shine. but the rain or shine is better to use when pipes and fittings are not necessarily dry. I usually keep both around.

I prefer a few hours, personally. And if possible, I glue a section together that can be taken outside to rinse garden hose water through first, and then glue in the final two connections. This allows me to remove excess toxins from the glue process.

I have seen it do just fine after about 5 minutes, but I usually wait about an hour. You have to remember we are using the plumbing for flow and it has very little psi in most cases on the plumbing.

I normally let it go for about 24 hours just to make sure but it should be solid after a couple of hours.

I'm also just going through this process and I found a couple of small changes that saved me about $40/month on my utility bills.

- Cut my lighting schedule back; I used to run my total lighting schedule for about 10-12 hours per day with T5s comning on, then MHs, then MHs off, and then T5s off. I now run for a total of 7 hours, and run the T5s separate then the MHs. My schedule is now T5s, 5min overlap, MHs, T5s with overlap, then moonlights. I also run one dark day (no T5s/MHs) once per month. The shortened schedule had no impact on my clams or SPS, but I saw the numbers roll back on my bills.

- Optimizing auto-top offs. If your auto top off is going on/off/on/off frequently its costing you power, find a better way to arrange your system to allow the top off the run less frequently.

- Manifolds; I found chaining reactors with a manifold using a single efficient pump worked wonders. I cut out 4 maxi-jet type pumps, freed up plugs, and reduced the number of pumps I have to clean.

- Heat; I capped my lighting on my tank and found that my heaters don't run a much. Yes I had to add in fans to the canopy, but the fans run less & cost less then having my heaters running constantly. The canopy keeps the heat from my T5s and MH in the tank and not in the adjacent room.

- I also try to think differently about how I move water in my tank, I avoid multiple powerheads when I can and instead opt for manifold type returns.

When I did this whole process we used to pay ~$450/month in utilities; Water, Gas, Electricity & City Disposal & fees. We now pay something thats closer $300, and as I swap out old appliances, and replace old windows & doors (like you obviously know) the costs keep dropping.

This is an issue close to my heart. My new tank is going to be green. I just haven't written the article yet.

If you build a manifold off of your return pump you can eliminate the two mj 400s running your gac and po4 remover.

See my latest blog post about LED and the lack of UV controversy. Don't get me wrong I REALLY want LED to be the real deal. I think they produce more pop than MH, and at less than half the wattage.

LED all the way! I tried DIY LED's over my 7.5g cube and the results have been great! I'm going to convert my 55g's lights to LED now. I was really skeptical at first, but I can't argue with the results I'm getting.

I agree. I am researching the LED scene right now. I have an LFS that switched my from MH 400's to LED's and he said he is getting better PAR. I guess he could tell I was not buying it. He took out his par meter and showed my. About 15" down in the display tank, he was getting between 350-400. He then took me over to another tank and took a Par reading of a 400 MH, PAR 200-300 about 8" down. The more and more I research LED's, the more I think it can be done but at what cost? DIY would be cheaper. I am going to build one a test unit after Xmas and place it on a frag tank to see my results. Why do you think they cant support SPS? The new AI model looks like a PAR monster.

Well I guess as far as lighting goes I can think of two options. The first being LED. I am still on the fence about LED for SPS. If I did t have SPS I would have them a long time ago. The other option I can think of is a single 400 halide on a light mover, along with your T5 supplements.

Rinse all plumbing with fresh water before running tank water through them. this will blow the fumes out and rinse out any glue chunks from the piping.