Originally Posted by Alaska_Phil Nice, now you can see that great rockwork and fish. No idea if 3200K will grow corals, but I suspect the PAR measurement will be really low. Lux is measured at 5700K and I believe PAR is even higher. 3200K will grow nuisance algae nicely though. I use 4100K fluorescents in my turf scrubber and they work very well. Alaska_Phil, thank you very much for the compliments. I actually have had these lights on the aquarium for the last two weeks and I haven't seen one bit of nuisance algae form. I honestly thought that would happen but nothing.
Originally Posted by RED Traditionally, 10000K is the minimum and 12, 14 & 15 is being used depending on the depth of the tank... LED is still untested in allot of set-ups, so it may work on softies, but I don't see how it can sustain SPS... Barrow a PAR meter and test before you add any Corals... i am testing out a Marine Land double bright LED system on a 20gl nano lagoon and I am not seeing the reg cycle that normally occurs, so I am thinking the light is not able to support corals... Great idea for the sump if the micro will grow. Red, thank you for the information. It was more a curiousity question wit the lights. I don't know anyone with a PAR Meter and unfortunately they are a bit too expensive for me at the moment. The main purpose was just to light the aquarium so that I could see the fish and inverts. I actually have already monitored the cycle of the aquarium and my parameters are more than acceptable.
Nice, now you can see that great rockwork and fish. No idea if 3200K will grow corals, but I suspect the PAR measurement will be really low. Lux is measured at 5700K and I believe PAR is even higher. 3200K will grow nuisance algae nicely though. I use 4100K fluorescents in my turf scrubber and they work very well.
Traditionally, 10000K is the minimum and 12, 14 & 15 is being used depending on the depth of the tank... LED is still untested in allot of set-ups, so it may work on softies, but I don't see how it can sustain SPS... Barrow a PAR meter and test before you add any Corals... i am testing out a Marine Land double bright LED system on a 20gl nano lagoon and I am not seeing the reg cycle that normally occurs, so I am thinking the light is not able to support corals... Great idea for the sump if the micro will grow.
I would say it is an excellent professional device. It is an ATO mechanical Filter sponge filter and Skimmer. 20-30 watts of skimming will not handle 120 gallons though. I would use it on 50 gallon breeder etc. It has best industry ATO and pumps and is not cheap. For in tank it make be best option.
dang that sucks
Originally Posted by mro2you2 awesome. I always like smaller aquariums rather then big ones so you can focus more on the smaller things. Can't wait to see it filled to the rim with zoanthids Mro2you2, I definitely love the allure that smaller aquariums have. But I haven't been able to find any details on the wattage for the LED so as of now I am just sticking to a fish only. I would love some beautiful high end Zoanthids in there though.
awesome. I always like smaller aquariums rather then big ones so you can focus more on the smaller things. Can't wait to see it filled to the rim with zoanthids
Originally Posted by JABlacher What size tank is this going on, and do you have a sump? For the price of this thing you could get much better equipment depending on if you have a sump or not. JABlacher, This is going to be placed on a 120 gallon with no sump.
What size tank is this going on, and do you have a sump? For the price of this thing you could get much better equipment depending on if you have a sump or not.
Originally Posted by Midnight My be better answered on their site. Unless someone has done this very thing before with this company. Midnight, I am going to give Tunze a call tomorrow if I have time to answer this question. I was just hoping that maybe someone would know offhand.
My be better answered on their site. Unless someone has done this very thing before with this company.
who's koralia is leaking electricity?
Nothing wrong with overkill, I usually start mixing my salt 2 or 3 days before I plan to do a water change, and try to always keep at least a few gallons ready to go.
Originally Posted by MarcG I use a Maxijet 1200 with a sure flow mod (2100gph) that I had laying around and I KNOW it is way too much, but I also do about a 30 gallon change every two weeks. It mixes the water a bit quicker, it was cheap when I bought it and I already had it. Plus it won't leak electricity like a Koralia.... MarcG, definitely agree that faster in this case is better for me as well.
Originally Posted by Alaska_Phil The air stone and heater alone would be enough, you just need to keep the water moving and not stagnant. You don't need to simulate a reef crest in your mixing bucket. Alaska_Phil, I choose not to go with the minimum because I want a way to also ensure that all the salt has dissolved accordingly in a short period of time. It would take too long using just an airstone for circulation.
I use a Maxijet 1200 with a sure flow mod (2100gph) that I had laying around and I KNOW it is way too much, but I also do about a 30 gallon change every two weeks. It mixes the water a bit quicker, it was cheap when I bought it and I already had it. Plus it won't leak electricity like a Koralia....
The air stone and heater alone would be enough, you just need to keep the water moving and not stagnant. You don't need to simulate a reef crest in your mixing bucket.
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