Blog Comments

For MI (Marine Ich) there are only (2) acceptable treatments and both take a long time (in Aquarium terms) to complete but must be COMPLETED or it's a futile attempt. As already mentioned MI is common today in our systems and many of us have to deal with it at one time or another. Most of the time once you deal with it you'll take ALL the needed precautions to not go through it again.

First I didn't see this noted but it must be understood that a "Cleaner" organism (fish, shrimp etc) does NOT cure your system of MI. It merely cleans the surface of the fish where the MI is apparent. More correctly they clean the WOUND/SKIN where one of the parasites has made a sore. It's like picking the SCAB off of a cut and thinking you're cut is gone. Not the case unfortunately. It's a very common misconception (I used to believe this as well) that a Cleaner Shrimp/Fish will actually cure the fish of MI. WRONG!!

Also understand that even though you don't SEE any symptoms of MI it's possible your system is still infected with it. Often times people get a sudden out-break of MI after months of NO new additions at all. This is merely a case of the system being in "Equilibrium" and the fish are able to "Handle" the parasite until some "stressor" is introduced (usually water parameter issue in this instance) and the fish's immune system is compromised. Then the parasite is better able to reproduce and the VISIBLE signs are apparent. Take the time to learn about the full Life-Cycle of this animal and you'll be much better prepared in how to treat and WIN over this problem.

Marc I hope this doesn't violate any TOS here but here is a link to an EXCELLENT write up about MI and the whole curing process from a well known person (Leebca)

Curing Fish of Marine Ich by leebca



As noted putting a tang (IMHO) any tang into a 29g system is literally begging for problems as they need a lot of lateral swim room even at the smaller size. I'd consider anything smaller than a 75 to be a mere QT/HT for a tang and suggest it only be in there for Observation (3-4 weeks) or Treatment (8weeks).

Hat good luck. Regardless of how you treat it... ICH SUCKS! Just stick with the basics and follow the treatment to it's completion. Short-cuts only get you back to where you are quicker!!

Allen

Thanks Big Al for the info! ;-)

Originally Posted by Alaska_Phil

Lights out won't phase hair algae in the slightest. The 3 day blackout only works for very simple algae like, diatoms, dino's and cyanobacteria. Hair, Bryopsis, turf and macro algaes won't be affected.

Exactly right. HA is a very efficient form of algae and will utilize light, organics or just about anything else in the tank to survive on and on and onnnnnnn. It's usually best met with a multi-level attack:

1. Manual Removal
2. Heavy Water Changes (in direct conjunction with #1)
3. Food/Feeding Methods changed/evaluated

Just keep in mind the following items:

• It didn't happen over night and it will take LONGER to get rid of than to get it.
• It's among some of the oldest living organisms on the planet so it's been through a lot more than what we can throw at it at any one time so stick with it because persistence is what wins the race!!

yeah, I get confused with them also and i've actually been doing this for a while now and covered it in college.

I meant to say nitrites lol... it's wrong that they put 2 vital stats so close to each other on spelling!

Originally Posted by ghurlag

I am having issues with hair algae as well, in my 29g. I have been wondering about lighting as well. Keep us posted on how this works out for you.

Lights out won't phase hair algae in the slightest. The 3 day blackout only works for very simple algae like, diatoms, dino's and cyanobacteria. Hair, Bryopsis, turf and macro algaes won't be affected.

Originally Posted by dread240

Your tank is definitely still cycling... everything you've wrote points to that issue. Basically once your nitrates are down to 0, I would just for safety do it every other day, but still testing daily. Eventually that cycle is over and you can do weekly changes like I'm at now.. though I can actually go up to 2 weeks w/o registering anything at all.. I'm just anal

After 5.5 years Marc's tank still has detectable nitrate, is it still cycling?

algae can't grow on light alone. If you're having algae there is excess nutrients in the water. Your test kit may not be even reading them, but that is only because the algae itself is taking them up from the water, causing it to grow.

ways to combat it in your main tank.

Use high quality purified water.. Not doing anything by just introducing nitrates or phosphates everytime you make a water change.. Even if your source water has a slight bit of ammonia in it and you lock it up, it still eventually gets converted which ends up as nitrates as well too. Purchase melev's RO/DI unit, I haven't found a better price for one yet that is that thorough, and will definitely keep your source water free from pollutants.

Set up a refugium if possible to grow macro algae. It's larger, easier to maintain, and in a seperate tank from your main display. Let it absorb any nutrients from the water such as decaying food and the such, and it starves out nuissance algae very very well.

Third... buy a willard! (that's what we named my lawnmower blenny since 'skip' is already taken by our turtle) I haven't seen any creature kick hair algae in the *** like he does... he's the equivalent of 30 hermits and 40 snails all in one... hair algae machine.

I am having issues with hair algae as well, in my 29g. I have been wondering about lighting as well. Keep us posted on how this works out for you.

Your tank is definitely still cycling... everything you've wrote points to that issue. Just keep doing the daily water changes for the time being, and also make sure you're testing everything before you do the change so you can see when the cycle is coming to an end. Basically once your nitrates are down to 0, I would just for safety do it every other day, but still testing daily. Eventually that cycle is over and you can do weekly changes like I'm at now.. though I can actually go up to 2 weeks w/o registering anything at all.. I'm just anal

Yeah, i'm doing 5 gallons a day for a week like I believe you said to do. I just want my tank back right and healthy. Thanks Phil for the info! Big Help!

Yeah, i'm doing 5 gallon water a day changes for a week. And i'm going to get one of them all in one small tank setups from wal-mart for a quarantine tank; I'll get it before next livestock purchase. Thanks for the info Marc!

I've done that before to fight dino algae with no ill effects. Plan on a water change right before you put the lights back on. Otherwise all the nutrients from the dead algae are still in there and it'll grow right back again.

Look, ich isn't mysterious. It's a parasite. It can exist in a tank that for all appearances looks perfectly healthy. However, the day all hell breaks loose and the system gets out of whack, your fish may almost immediately thereafter 'develop ich' on their skin. What has happened is the fish becomes stressed and their defenses are down. It doesn't take much, sadly.

Whenever you get a new fish or coral, it is best to dump out all the water and only move the livestock to the tank (qt or display). This lessens the risk significantly. Certain corals won't tolerate air at all, like starfish or sponges. In those cases, it's all about massive amounts of water acclimation to dilute the risk. Best to put either in quarantine for the 21 day period, then transfer it over fully submerged into the display with the least amount of water possible.

Thanks Sailfintang for the info, yeah I turned light off early yesterday. I believe it should help. And yeah, they have plenty of cloudy days around most reefs.

Yeah, I recently got some frags, ich came right after. Thanks for the info Phil!

I have had no issues running no lights for up to 3 days on my tank. seems like it is beneficial to the corals as well. It is not always sunny in the tropics.

Originally Posted by Hat39406

I don't know how ich got in the tank, maybe poor water?

HAT

Ich is a parasite, The only way i can get into a system is on a fish, or in the water with a new fish or coral. Hence the need to quarantine new additions. It'll sneak by even the best LFS at times. having good water quality and otherwise healthy fish just allows them to survive it.

I do Marc, I actually feel real bad right now! I don't know how ich got in the tank, maybe poor water? I don't know, but I do all regular maintenance on the tank. Water is always cystal clear. I'm starting to check my water perimeters everyday. Ich killed the powder blue and both clowns, i'm treating the scopas like she is my baby. I don't want to try and get her out because that will totally stress her out. So, i'm just watching her all the time. She is not as bad as the rest of the fish were. Just a few spots, but i'm worried; if she gets worst I will do what I have to and get her out. I have makeshift hospital ready to go already.

No, i'm going to take it real slow for now on Marc. I had plans for the tangs all alone though. The LFS said they would take them back if I didn't have a bigger tank by the time they got big. I would have done taht or give them to one of y'all. I know that would have been a good home. I love my fish though. I take it personal when something happens. I don't have the best equipment but I do try and give them a good home.

Hey, on a better note: The skimmer is kicking butt! I can't believe how nice its working, after a lot of tweaking!

Hey, I was thing jof keeping lights off for a few days? 1. to try and get rid of algae which is real bad. and 2. less stress on my scopas. What do ya think?

Thanks for all the help everyone,

HAT

Hat, I'd like to strongly warn you against putting a tang in your 29g again. Unless you can find one that is a tiny baby (1" in length), and you understand that that fish will need a bigger tank sooner than you might hope. A Powder Blue tang is a beautiful fish, but needs a lot of swimming space.

Ich is a treatable infection, but there really aren't any 100% reef-safe medications you can use. If all of your fish die, you should leave it fallow (fish-less) for six weeks. That way any trophants in the water will die due to no host (fish) to feed upon. All new fish should go in quarantine for 21 days minimum. This allows you to observe the fish closely, deal with any infections that break out, and teach it what foods you offer without any competition from other fish. This time period assures you don't introduce a disease into the tank. Of course, it is really important to do your best not to add any water from another source to your tank, which may contain more waterborne pests.

Freshwater dips are one way to shed the little fleas that are on your fish. What usually kills the fish is that they get into their gills. If you'll look up "hyposalinity" it will help explain how to use lower salinity to rid your fish of any parasites. It too is a slow process. The thing you've got to ask yourself is this: Are all of my fish nice and healthy? Should I risk their health with a new arrival? Try to avoid putting AIDS in your tank, if you know what I mean.