Plumbing

The plan: 22in tall 6in diameter single chamber reactor(can add second chamber later if wanted.) The reactor has to be leak proof or I will have to add onto my sump which does not have space for it. I will use a mag 7 or 9 pump for recirculation and come off of my return for feed water(may use a small power head.) It will have a probe port on the reactor and a bubble counter.

Few questions:

what do I make the probe holder out of?

I have seen other ...

So I finally got around to setting up the auto top off. I do spend a lot of time away from the reef and decided that, though I love my wife dearly, she won't always remember to check on the tank. So I spent about 30 dollars on parts from http://www.aquahub.com. I actually got 3 float switches, the third I may add to the reservoir or just hang on to for a spare. I had a small sheet of 1/4 inch acrylic in the garage to use for the mounting bracket. I ripped off a two inch strip and and heated ...

Alright, so I got all my auto top off parts in yesterday. I have some 1/4" acrylic and I want to cut a 2" wide strip and make two bends in it to make the bracket for the float switches. I have a propane torch that I was thinking of using to heat up the material. Would this be alright?

I have a question about the wet assembly on my vortech. On one side or quarter of the wet assembly there is a section that does not have grills/it is solid. Which direction should this face or does it matter?

I am restarting an old tank and have a question or two. My tank is a 135 flat back hex acrylic aquarium. I have built a pedestal style stand for it which i think will look great once finished (a carpenter buddy of mine is going to skin it for me.) the two corner overflows are rather small like 5" by 5". the manufacturer put in holes in the bottom of the overflows for 1" drains and 3/4" returns. I said this was OK when they asked me back when the tank was built( ya I am a ...