Blog Comments

thanks for the advice

Don't drop that cup any more.

If you have some acetate, you can wipe the surfaces first (lightly, don't go crazy). Then apply a thin bead, press and align it. You don't have to press hard, because it would otherwise press the glue out of the joint.

Get some astreas, some ceriths, some nassarius, and some tiny hermits (red legged are better than blue). Those will help keep the tank clean. A couple of bulldozing Mexican Turbo snails are very helpful, if you don't mind needing to check on frags that may have toppled during their travels.

Yes, the cheatomorpha should be helping. How's its growth rate?

You can buy an acrylic bonding product at stores like Hobby Lobby in the area where model planes & cars are found. It will be in a small bottle with a brush (like nail polish is sold).

Super Glue Gel will work as well, in a pinch.

That Bob, he is just creating more work for everyone!

haha sounds like a state worker lol

LOL!!! I will have to remember that one.

i wish i had went to fintastic when i was in charlotte last month i hear it is AMAZING

I'd love to see that one in person. One of the things I remember being amazed about was how my nassarius snails would motor across the sand bed at feeding time. Those guys are fast. hehe.

Sounds like it's a happy anemone.

You're not alone! That's what my BTAs do as well.

Duplicate entries?

http://www.reefaddicts.com/entry.php...-for-Green-BTA

Cool, I didn't think I needed to direct feed it as it did catch some of the tank feeding and I have two clowns that are hosting in it. I already have my lights set up like melev's, however, I only have 2x250 MH. I wonder if I can switch out the reflectors on my outer orbit fixture to better ones...I am going to have to check into that.

Years ago, I would feed my bubble tip anemones, but that is definitely in the past. I haven't target fed an anemone in at least six years. Every night when I feed my reef thawed frozen foods, the anemones are quick to inflate their mouths into a giant set of lips, ready to inhale whatever they can from what drifts close by.

If you want to feed your anemone, I would suggest getting some fresh raw (uncooked) shrimp at the local deli. Ask for five of them and watch the butcher's reaction. hehe Bring them home, and put them in the freezer. Then when you are ready to feed your anemone, pull one out and cut it into five equal-sized pieces. Each one will be about the size of a lima bean. Feed that bit of food every three days. Those five shrimp will feed your anemone 25 times or for 75 days. Not expensive at all, right?

If an anemone spits out a blog of food, it was overfed. It is definitely possible for an anemone to expel waste, but mine never do since they never get a solid meal from me. And look at how they grow without food. Do they need to be any bigger?

Lighting is a totally different topic, but like Al pointed out, high noon isn't all day long. An anemone will get a blast for two or three hours, but the rest of the day was sunlight ramping up and ramping back down. That is why I run staggered lighting over my tank. Here's the article on that topic: http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.p...d-Lighting-why

I like to TRY and mimic Natural Habitats. Even though the "Reef" as a whole gets a lot of sunlight in a days time not EVERY part of the reef does. I like to keep MH's around 9-10 hour days.

As for feeding they'll like slightly larger meaty foods. Remember in nature they'll be eating small fish, inverts etc that get to close and GOBBLED! Try to not get TOO big and feed a variety of things. Feed sparingly because LIGHT does them the most good

I've always fed my anemones meaty food such as smaller pieces of krill. I guess it would depend on the size of the anemone, if you have a small one you may want to start with half of a krill. If you feed food with larger chunks in it (i.e. Rod's Food),usually a hosting clown will take it to the anemone. If you don't have a clown that hosts just grab it with some tongs and GENTLY put it in the anemone's tentacles and it should grab on to it. If the krill floats just squeeze it under water to get any air bubble out. It also helps to turn off the flow inside your display tank so it doesn't get blown out of the anemone's grasp.

First posting YAY!!!!! Plumbing it in can have added benefits like added water volume, more live rock and sand to help with a large bio load and is a lot more stable than a 12 all my itself. But like Melev said its not a QT. Anything bad introduced into the nano cube is introduced into the DT. I have always liked the plumbed in dual tanks though, if you hide the plumbing well enough it looks like two separate tanks. I always have a lot of respect for nano/pico tanks the smaller the tank the harder it is to keep alive and thriving. turn your back on a 5.5g pico for a day and you are in some serious trouble. My 16 gallon cube is like a baby she needs love on a daily basis and can not be neglected no matter what is going on. I would have to say top off and temp are your two biggest issues. QT should be a simple setup though you dont need a lot of fancy equipment like a fuge or MH lights, A cheap biowheel and pc/t5 lighting will do the trick. But beware many people have tried to set in a QT tank and end up dropping plenty of coin in it making it a second tank.

Don't plumb it into your system, or it isn't a quarantine tank. Quarantine means isolated or stand-alone. You can move water from the display into it to get it started. It needs some type of filtration, like a biowheel or biopad. Don't add sand. If you put in LR, you are sacrificing it forever to the QT and will never move it back to your display.

With any QT, it is critical to top off daily to maintain stable salinity, and watch water temperature closely as well.

Does anyone have the weight limits on the sunlifts? We've been tossing back and forth lighting mounting ideas, and are unsure the sunlifts can hold the weight of our homemade canopy.....