Blog Comments

Why bother with live rock then? Just get dry base rock, that's all you'll have after the acid dip after all.

Let's us know how this turns out.

I think I will do that. Jeff has always been super helpful before.

You have a couple of choices. One would be to order the new impeller and hope that solves it. The other would be to send the pump to Euroreef and have them determine if it can be fixed that way or if you need a new pump. I'm sure Jeff will steer you in the right direction: http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.p...Inc-is-no-more

I see I can get a new complete impeller shaft but it is $100 and I would hate to buy it and that not be the problem.

I fully disassembled the pump. The magnet section is not smooth it has some rough spots on it. The needle wheel appears to be ok, and the ceramic shaft is still in one piece.

Did you fully disassemble the pump and inspect it closely for any issues? Is the impellar's magnet section smooth or has a part expanded? Is there anything in the needlewheel area? Is the ceramic shaft still one piece?

I originally had it in 6.5"of water and then tried 9.5" I know ideal is 7.5. I pinched off the venturi tube and it still would not overflow. How do I test it for strength? What could cause it act this way? I would hate to have to buy a new one they are not cheap.

What depth is the skimmer sitting in? If you remove the venturi tube, I bet that skimmer will overflow - you might test that for pump strength.

I think that the ES mode is the coolest thing ever. When I build my 180 next month I am ordering 2 MP40W ESs and maybe if I can an MP10W ES for the back and run them on the "Tidal Swell Mode".
But....I obviously don't have them yet...so no real experience here, just excitement!

Mine are set to Reefcrest all the time, and I have an MP20 on the back of my tank in a slower pulse mode. This pushes water through the corals on the right-middle section of my tank, keeping the BTA toward the front of the tank. That pump draws in fresh water and pushes it forward, which helped decrease what I felt was a low-flow area.

I'm getting the Eco-Smart drivers too, so I may decide to change it up a bit.

I use Reef Crest (high energy reef environment) mode 100% of the time. Then when my lights go out it switches into night mode. This just works for me. That's why I purchased a mp10 (old style) this month. Couldn't justify the extra cost for the EcoSmart driver if I only use Reef Crest mode !

Yes I use a refractometer, and run a carbon reactor. no noithing is close by that could sting
them.

Are you using a refractometer for checking salinity? Do you run carbon or any other material to filter our toxins that the corals may be secreting? It may be a case of allopathy if you have stinging corals close by.

pH is the result of oxygen levels, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium to put it simply. The levels you are observing are fine, and are not the cause of an RTN event. pH would have to drop to 6.5 or lower, or spike to 8.6 or higher to cause coral reactions.

RTN is more of a mystery for the most part, although Eric Borneman has been trying to nail down the cause for some time now.

I'd raise your salinity to 35ppt, and double check nitrate and phosphate levels. If you keep everything stable and steady, your corals should thrive for the most part.

Yeah I have 2 leather corals in there. Both are doing ok. Like I said I think my test kit is bad. Basing it off of the difference in readings for my calcium. I am driving to a different fish store tomorrow to buy a new Alk test kit so I can check my readings.

Do you have any leather corals in there? My finger leathers and toadstool retract their polyps when my Alk gets down to 7 or below. It's a great indicator to back up the tests kits.

The newer Calcium number is good, better than 520.
Bring up that Magnesium though, to 1300-1350ppm. It'll take a lot to bring it up - don't be surprised.
Alkalinity at 8 dKH is a good number.

Well my Alk test kit did not come in, but my Calcium kit did. So I tested my Calcium, Alk, and Mag. Twice for the Cal once with the old kit and once with the new kit. Here are the results.
Calcium
520ppm (old API kit)
430ppm (new Salifert Kit)
Alk.
8 dkh (old API kit)
Mag
1200 (Salifert)
Now I am worried about what my Alk is really at. If my Calcium was that far off I wonder how far off my Alk is?

That's a good point - if the livestock seems to be doing well, don't over-react to numbers you don't like. Always try to take a step back and look at the big picture so think it through. Let us know what happens with your new kits.